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The River Wild 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1998
Page Views: 1,614
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 18, 2001

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Belay at the double bolt anchor left of the block on the ledge 100 ft above the creek. Two hard lines depart here: The River Wild and Viagra Falls, The River Wild is the left of the two. The climbing starts with back to back dynamic power throws out of a shallow, right-facing, corner system to a good jug, probably at middle 5.12. This gains a small roof with a nasty (Repeat that: NASTY) finger lock for the right hand. This is a keeper, and it must be used to launch the crux. Lock in the right hand prior to starting the launch, ease the fingers out of the lock and turn it into an undercling that gets progressively worse as you stack up for the launch. Launch high and left for "jug" (read sloper) and get the feet pasted up ASAP; the clip is right there. Now, I rarely find myself in conflict with Alan Nelson, on whose opinion I place enormous value; however, relative to Sonic Youth or Anarchitect, I would lean toward calling the crux here closer to 5.12c than 5.13. It is not harder than the roof on Sonic and it is not harder than the finishing fin on Sonic. It is not harder than the slap on Matriarch or the sloper crux on Anarchitect. With the feet up over the roof, climbing eases way back to 5.11c/d on smears and largely good hands. Follow a bit of an arching seam with occasionally sinker hands. Overall, this route is positively great. I returned to it today (July 2001) after having not tried for more than nine months and I was still impressed with the great moves, big power, the near perfect stone, and the excellent bolting job. What makes it especially nice is that the hard stuff is over first. Three stars by almost any measure.


QD only and 60 m rope. The route needs about a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. This is a pitch off the ledge and while only 70 ft long, you would need either a 60 m rope for descent or double ropes.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 11, 2007
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 20, 2001

Nod goes to Alan on this, and I'll fess up to hanging at the finger lock (yet again) on this umpteenth time through the route. I would like to get an opinion from the younger stronger crowd because I'm so close to getting this great route that I'd be grinning from ear to ear if it held the rating. I was dubious because with a big ape index and a good stance in the undercling, the launch is not very far.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 1, 2001

5.12c ?
By richard magill
Jan 10, 2002
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Alternate beta: When I did this, I did a left hand, thumbs down fingerlock in the lock you guys are talking about for the right hand. Then you step up high and do a burly reach right of the dihedral to a slopey knob. You have to pull really hard with your left to make it, bringing your waist almost even with the lock. Then you bring your left hand up to a tiny thin pocket left of the dihedral that is shaped like a smile. Then you ooze up the dihedral as far as you can and make a desperate slap at the jug (I cant remember which hand). Try it next spring/summer - it works. Difficulty would be V5+ or V6, I suppose.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jan 10, 2002

I am not sure how you would get an inverted left hand in the slot. Logic dictates a right hand jam because it sets up the reach to the slopey horn in one long move with the left. The jam seemed to work only by slotting the right, and this seems to lead naturally into the undercling.....(?). Are we talking about the same route? Your rating, Rich, seems to agree with Steve's.
By Nate Weitzel
Jan 10, 2002

I believe that when I working this one day I was using the left handed finger lock that Rich used. Can't say that it was much fun, but that is how I tried it.

By richard magill
Jan 11, 2002
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

With the left hand lock, you never touch the slopey horn to the left, but instead you go straight up the dihedral, directly in-line with the bolts. You can't clip until you make it up to the jug after the crux.Although it worked,it did make my left index finger bleed quite a bit. About the rating, I don't know but I don't think this is as hard as Anarchitect. But then I find myself saying that about almost every route.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jan 11, 2002

Rich's comment sounds like terrific beta. What has always given me the willies about this climb is the fear that falling with the right hand still in the jam would probably rip off a pair of fingers. Switching hands and getting away from the right hand lock seems like a sweet solution, however, I can imagine that the switch brings up a very powerful lock-off on the left. If it saves the fingers, it's worth a try. The other thing that Rich's beta appears to solve is pitching for the sloper with the left hand. This is a long left reach to bad hold using the right hand in the jam, but going to the dihedral in one big move with the right hand misses this problem as well. I'll give it try when weather permits, this seems like a really smart solution.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jan 11, 2002

With Rich and Nate weighing in with similar beta it looks as though youth, strength, and creativity win the beta wars. So for all of the old farts that grow up thinking that a hand jam is next to God - kiss it off for this route.
By James Dally
Jul 26, 2004

I got on the route today for the first time, and I am not a crack climber at all. So the finger Lock you guys are talking about was not an option for me. I pulled straight off the sloping corner just to the right of the finger jam and got my feet really high and slapped for the little sloper out on the right. Then grabbed a little crimp on the left side of the crack, bumped the left hand to the good hold in the crack.........I liked the route it was fun, but no way I can do 5.13 on the 2nd go......I feel that Anarchitect is harder then this route. Maybe I just found a different way to do it...
By richard magill
Dec 7, 2004
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Actually, to be more precise, I would say 12c/d.

Went down much easier than Anarchitect.

But the quality is there regardless of the rating. Fun, steep, slopey climbing leads to a tricky crux (V5)followed by more steepness at the 5.11 grade.

Great job by Alan Nelson.
By Swavek Gaik
From: Superior, CO
Aug 11, 2007

Please take a wrench on your next trip and tighten the second bolt (I tightened it as good as I could with my fingers).

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