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East Gate Buttress
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Gran Hermano T 
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Ripping Wall, The T 
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Unsorted Routes:

The Ripping Wall 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Drew Bedford, Clay Watson April 2014
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 387
Submitted By: drewford on Nov 15, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: The Ripping Wall. Red dots show belays.

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 – Climb the green face and crack that starts just left of Sidewinder. 5.8, 80'

P2 - Traverse across slabs to a dihedral, angling towards the obvious finger crack splitting a small roof. Surmount this, then pass small overlaps towards the obvious roof. Pass another bolt, traversing right around the roof, then left to the anchor. 5.10c. 100’.

P3 - Climb positive edges and rails via bolts leading to a flake (.75" piece optional). At the top of the flake, pull the crux on small edges past a few more bolts up to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.10d. 70’.

The line of bolts to the right of P3 is "Clay, Like Dirt" 5.9

Location 

Route can be rapped with one 70m.

Protection 

Standard double rack to 2.5"


Photos of The Ripping Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one
BETA PHOTO: Pitch one
Rock Climbing Photo: db on the third pitch. Photo: Clay Watson
db on the third pitch. Photo: Clay Watson

Comments on The Ripping Wall Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Jun 14, 2016

The second pitch links improbable features.
The third pitch has uncommonly good edges that sweep you up and left into the crux.
The wind rips and tears around you as you top out near the highpoint of the formation.

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