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Ripped Wall
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Ripped Wall, The S 
Stroking The Bishop S 

The Ripped Wall 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Gallagher and Jeff Jackson - 1996
Page Views: 86
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 11, 2016

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Description 

This amazing stretch of vertical wall climbing is my favorite 12a in Potrero. Perfect rock, interesting climbing with multiple cruxes, and thoughtful bolting make this thing outstanding.

Begin on the lower tier of the ledge system by either traversing right and downwards from the popular "Strokin' the Bishop" or traversing left from the righthand approach pitch. The start is at a single bolt anchor (older Metolius hanger); to the left is a newer line with Madrock hangers and to the right is the bolt and chain anchor of the approach pitch which is also the starting point of Biaji's Boulevard.

Wear edging shoes, milk the rests, complain about your wingspan, and above all enjoy this route - it is so good!

N.B.:

Climb the entire thing in one pitch with 16 draws and a long sling for the intermediate anchor - thus avoiding a hanging belay that separates the 5.11d first pitch from the 5.12a second pitch.

Also, resist the temptation to clip the final bolt of El Sendero del Vagabundo - really this shameful bolt should be chopped as it encroaches upon the older and far more classic Ripped Wall.

Protection 

8-10 bolts per pitch. More if linking (recommended).


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