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The Right Stuff 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Garry Allan, Victor Marcus, John Hoffman 1979
Season: Spring Through Fall - or Winter the last couple of seasons
Page Views: 279
Submitted By: Patrick Mulligan on May 3, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The new belay bolts (with one old bolt) is a balan...

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Description 

This route is badass. Even more badass is that Gary Allan climbed and bolted it onsight, ground up.

Pitch one of the route starts about 30' from the left side of the wall and directly below the end of the arching crack that makes up the middle 1/3 of the route. There is about a 20' runout up 5.9+/5.10- slab to the first bolt (a nice new 1/2" ASCA 5-piece). There is then another 20' of runout up the slab into the bottom of the arching crack. Follow the arching crack through a couple of cruxy sections with very thin feet to a belay on a small ledge (tall reach to the new belay bolts (one ASCA 5 piece and one 3/8" bolt).

Now make difficult and balancey moves clipping the 1st bolt on the second pitch and then follow the hand crack up through a couple of bulges to the replaced anchor.

Location 

The route starts under the bottom of the arching crack.

Protection 

There is 1 protection bolt per pitch. Double Rack to #3 w/ an extra #2 and a single #4.


Photos of The Right Stuff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The New Anchors at the top.
The New Anchors at the top.

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By Patrick Mulligan
May 3, 2015

This thing is best in spring after some winter run off. Last Fall this thing was covered in Guano from the cliff's namesake. This spring, before the bats have returned, the climb was much cleaner. I cleaned the lower pitch pretty well, and gardened up high as necessary, but the 2nd pitch is very dirty still. The climbing eases pretty significantly after the pro bolt on the 2nd pitch. I simply gardened as I climbed. and found the majority of the climbing to be pretty secure. A very long sling on the 1st bolt, mitigates the run out (use a cordelette) on the 1st pitch. Some of the holds in the crack are still somewhat slick with Guano, but its pretty clean right now. I cleaned just before climbing as there is some moss that runs down the cliff on the first pitch.

I found the crux to be a section of the traverse with thin gear and underclings and friction dependent feet on somewhat lichen covered foot holds.

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