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The Rift 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1966 - Claude Davies & Ally Cowburn
Page Views: 24
Submitted By: Rob Davies UK on Oct 19, 2010

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Seasonal closure for bird nesting.


A traditional climb that is unaccountably neglected. Good training for easier Vedauwoo 5.6s.

P1 110' 5.8: After an initial steep crack get established - or even stuck - in the chimney (at this point retreat slings may be in place, no doubt left by fat climbers). Struggle upwards for about 30' until it's possible to emerge [listen to the cries of "It's a boy!"] and climb the slabby left wall to a good stance.

P2 60' 5.7: Walk left and climb a much easier corner crack.


The Upper Tier at Gogarth has an easier approach than most other parts of the cliff. Scramble down a muddy gully to reach the right hand end of the Upper Tier. After passing under some steep grooves, a squat pinnacle about 100' high is reached. Both sides of this form tight chimneys - The Rift is the one on the right. Descend by scrambling upwards then traversing grass and gorse slopes back to the descent gully.


Not a lot of gear in the chimney but it would be hard to fall out of this.

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