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The Ridiculous Finish 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tony Sartin and Bob Gaines, November 2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 843
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Dec 20, 2006

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From the Humerous anchor, this direct finish continues straight up on slightly overhanging face climbing past 2 bolts to the top of the overhanging block, where there is a 2-bolt rappel/lower-off anchor (100 feet).


2 more bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

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By Murf
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Fun moves, with some tricky beta. Pumps you out more than you would think for the distance.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
May 30, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Murf, you climb a lot in Josh, you really think that thing is .11b? I led it today after not climbing in Josh for 4 months & hung after the first bolt. Figured it was my head, grains, ... but not the grade. Confirm it's a true 11b and I'll be pretty happy vs. disgusted I hung when I didn't need to.

After you get established it really is some fun climbing and absolutely worth doing if you're in the area. May be short but packs a good punch.

Finish hold to clip the anchors can be a burner. Also make note that even though the route is 2 bolts I clipped the chain anchors at the ledge too so bring an extra draw when linking up humorous with the Ridiculous Finish.
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
May 31, 2008

Nice send, Susan!
By Murf
May 31, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I'm kinda done w/a,b,c,d, more into 11-, 11, 11+. I think it's 5.11 for the onsite grade. You get this feeling you should undergrade because this bit is so short, but it's tricky, and punchy for its length. You have to think about the ledge that you never get quite far off.

In short, I sound like locker... 5.8+++.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Nov 25, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Fun, and worth the tick if you're at the anchor looking up at it. Good holds, with engaging movement. Felt 10+/11- to me. I didn't realize how steep this mini-pitch was until I looked down from the anchors!
By SCherry
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 28, 2013

Not sure about previous comments, but I climbed this on 1/26/13 and found the thing to be a choss pile. The moves are cool but the rock definitely leaves something to be desired.

Oh yea, and a very crucial knob right in the middle of the crux ripped off right in my hand, mid move. So, its probably harder now.

Keep climbing it and it will be 5.13 in no time...
By Simon W
From: Nowhere Land
Dec 3, 2013

Climbed this extension two days ago and the crux felt tough for 11b. I haven't climbed many 11s at the park though (the other being Runway at Tumbling Rainbow, completely different technique.)

Getting the sequence right was very important. Steep edges on off balance (or poor quality) feet leads to the clipping rail for the second bolt.

Curious to see what someone who has climbed it a few years ago would have to say about the knob ripping off.

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