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The Rheesist 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Williams, Rhee, Bjorling
Season: Morning Shade, afternoon sun
Page Views: 854
Submitted By: camhead on Apr 14, 2014

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Paul (camhead) getting ready to suss out the crux ...

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a really fun, gymnastic route that has both steep, thuggish climbing, and delicate crimpy moves up top. Begin by soloing up easy terrain to the left of Psycho Wrangler. At the base of the roof, clip a long draw to the bolt in the back, get into a strenuous position on a glued flake for clipping the first of several perma-draws, and bust out a hard move to a jug out right. A few moves of easy steep climbing takes you to a hard clip and a pair of nice pockets, off of which you do the crux dyno. After this point you get a great recovery jug before moving into a very thin, techy sequence up the vertical headwall above, and one more little roof pull.

Location 

Steep line just to the left of the classic Psycho Wrangler.

Protection 

9 bolts, including 3 or 4 permadraws.


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