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The Monkey House
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Face Full of Bush S 
Monkey Bars S 
Monkey Business S 
Monkey Pause S 
Monkey Puzzle S 
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 
Monkey Shine S 
New Pollution, The S 
Psycho Hose Beast S 
Punishment For Shoplifting S 
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 
Schwing Salute S 
Soap on a Rope S 

The Reward aka Convicted Felon 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: ?
Fixed Hardware: 8 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 4,711
Submitted By: david goldstein on Mar 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (88)
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Laura in the crux of Convicted Felon.

Raptor Closures - 2016 Tunnel 2 Closure Lifted / Upper Canyon Road closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a crimper's delight. It is also good for the reach impaired as there are a lot of tiny intermediates. This is the route just left of Punishment for Shoplifting which is much discussed in the comments for that route.

This is continuous, vertical 11- in the bottom half, then cruxy off-vertical climbing on solid rock with variously oriented, small holds from bolts 6 to 8. There are a couple of decent rests before the business. Bonus: the crux clips are pretty easy.

Location 

This is between Schwing Salute and PFS.

Protection 

8 bolts.


Photos of The Reward aka Convicted Felon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper crux sequence (bolts 6-8).
BETA PHOTO: The upper crux sequence (bolts 6-8).
Rock Climbing Photo: The lower -- and very fun -- 5.11- sequence (bolts...
BETA PHOTO: The lower -- and very fun -- 5.11- sequence (bolts...
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up nicely.
Finishing up nicely.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mrs. Capps looking casual.
Mrs. Capps looking casual.

Comments on The Reward aka Convicted Felon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 28, 2015
By Sam Benedict
From: Denver, CO
Mar 27, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

F'in fantastic! The crux is all in the foot work. This would be an impressive onsight.
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Apr 2, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Really great route. Now that I finally sent it I don't have to guard my opinion in order to keep attention off it.
By slim
Administrator
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Called 'Convicted Felon' in the new guidebook, I think. Really good route with varied climbing that builds up to a nice crux.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Awesome. Simply one of the best in the canyon at the grade.
By GeoffElson
May 22, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

The rebolting seems to be a bit excessive. Safer than the gym.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 23, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Huh? Did this get retrobolted, Geoff?
By GeoffElson
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

It looks like at some point it was updated, there are permanent heavy duty biners on the lowering chains. I don't know anything about the history of the route this could have been the original bolt spacing but the lower section is over protected. Twice I was able to unclip the draw below and move it up to the next bolt.
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Nothing wrong with an overprotected parent for a climb when it comes to bolts. I was delighted to find out how crimpy and cruxy the upper section of this route is. Great line for people who love face climbing!
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 10, 2012

Fantastic route and one of the best routes I have done in Clear Creek. Who knew that Monkey House was so close to Wall of the '90s but sees very little traffic. A pumpy and gentle travere left on slopers takes you to a good rest and then 10 feet of techy/thin face climbing. This stone is perfect! Awesome! Do it....
By Elijah Flenner
Jun 8, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Bottom is harder than it looks, and the route is more sustained than it at first appears. The crux is a little tricky, but very good stances before and after that makes for a great 5.12 project.
By climberboy228
Nov 16, 2013

I got on this for the first time today while my buddy pursued and achieved the redpoint. This is a great line with varied climbing, good rests, and a delicate crux on vertical rock. I got it with two rests the first go and 1 rest on my second go. I'll come back for the redpoint soon! FYI, this route is in the shade and wind until about 1pm.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 28, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

First off, what a great line! Fun climbing! BUT I wanted to just give a bit of a shout out to climbers who come here looking for a straight up, crimp climb. I'm not sure where, Crimper's Delight came from, but when a route is 6 bolts out of 7 bolts of slopers and then 1 bolt of crimps (and 1 bolt of jugs), I wouldn't necessarily call it a "Crimper's Delight!" Great crux on crimps, though ;)