REI Community
The Monkey House
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Face Full of Bush S 
Fuzzy Monkey S 
Monkey Bars S 
Monkey Business S 
Monkey Pause S 
Monkey Puzzle S 
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 
Monkey Shine S 
New Pollution, The S 
Psycho Hose Beast S 
Punishment For Shoplifting S 
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 
Schwing Salute S 
Soap on a Rope S 

The Reward aka Convicted Felon 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: ?
Fixed Hardware: 8 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 5,370
Submitted By: david goldstein on Mar 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (104)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Laura in the crux of Convicted Felon.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is a crimper's delight. It is also good for the reach impaired as there are a lot of tiny intermediates. This is the route just left of Punishment for Shoplifting which is much discussed in the comments for that route.

This is continuous, vertical 11- in the bottom half, then cruxy off-vertical climbing on solid rock with variously oriented, small holds from bolts 6 to 8. There are a couple of decent rests before the business. Bonus: the crux clips are pretty easy.


This is between Schwing Salute and PFS.


8 bolts.

Photos of The Reward aka Convicted Felon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper crux sequence (bolts 6-8).
BETA PHOTO: The upper crux sequence (bolts 6-8).
Rock Climbing Photo: The lower -- and very fun -- 5.11- sequence (bolts...
BETA PHOTO: The lower -- and very fun -- 5.11- sequence (bolts...
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up nicely.
Finishing up nicely.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mrs. Capps looking casual.
Mrs. Capps looking casual.

Comments on The Reward aka Convicted Felon Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 7, 2017
By Sam Benedict
From: Denver, CO
Mar 27, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

F'in fantastic! The crux is all in the foot work. This would be an impressive onsight.
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Apr 2, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Really great route. Now that I finally sent it I don't have to guard my opinion in order to keep attention off it.
By slim
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Called 'Convicted Felon' in the new guidebook, I think. Really good route with varied climbing that builds up to a nice crux.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Awesome. Simply one of the best in the canyon at the grade.
By GeoffElson Elson
May 22, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

The rebolting seems to be a bit excessive. Safer than the gym.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 23, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Huh? Did this get retrobolted, Geoff?
By GeoffElson Elson
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

It looks like at some point it was updated, there are permanent heavy duty biners on the lowering chains. I don't know anything about the history of the route this could have been the original bolt spacing but the lower section is over protected. Twice I was able to unclip the draw below and move it up to the next bolt.
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Nothing wrong with an overprotected parent for a climb when it comes to bolts. I was delighted to find out how crimpy and cruxy the upper section of this route is. Great line for people who love face climbing!
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 10, 2012

Fantastic route and one of the best routes I have done in Clear Creek. Who knew that Monkey House was so close to Wall of the '90s but sees very little traffic. A pumpy and gentle travere left on slopers takes you to a good rest and then 10 feet of techy/thin face climbing. This stone is perfect! Awesome! Do it....
By Elijah Flenner
Jun 8, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Bottom is harder than it looks, and the route is more sustained than it at first appears. The crux is a little tricky, but very good stances before and after that makes for a great 5.12 project.
By climberboy228 Romano
Nov 16, 2013

I got on this for the first time today while my buddy pursued and achieved the redpoint. This is a great line with varied climbing, good rests, and a delicate crux on vertical rock. I got it with two rests the first go and 1 rest on my second go. I'll come back for the redpoint soon! FYI, this route is in the shade and wind until about 1pm.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 28, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

First off, what a great line! Fun climbing! BUT I wanted to just give a bit of a shout out to climbers who come here looking for a straight up, crimp climb. I'm not sure where, Crimper's Delight came from, but when a route is 6 bolts out of 7 bolts of slopers and then 1 bolt of crimps (and 1 bolt of jugs), I wouldn't necessarily call it a "Crimper's Delight!" Great crux on crimps, though ;)
By Nolan Robertson
Apr 7, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I love this route! The layout is awesome! I feel like the moves get consistently a little harder until you finally explode to the finish.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About