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The Remington Electric 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tony Sartin and Terri Condon (June 27, 2009)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,588
Submitted By: terri condon on Mar 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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This climb is rich with variety. The first 4 bolts climb up and left thru a beautiful black patina on crisp edges. From here cross a wide crack and head straight up on large holds thru a ramp system to a thin face crux under an overhang. Above the overhang easy but run-out climbing leads up and right to a bolt on the right edge of the large alcove. From here climb up and slightly left past 2 more bolts to the anchor.


This climb begins 15' left of The Notorious B.E.G. It is a rope stretcher with a 60m. Please tie a knot in the end.


13 bolts to a two-bolt mussy hook anchor

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By rickziegler Ziegler
Jul 10, 2011

Great addition to the Mustache Wall!
By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 19, 2011

Great route! Belayers watch out, top of climb is still cleaning up.
By Vlad S
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I counted 10 bolts.
By Tony Sartin
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

That's a shame Vlad. You missed some great climbing at the top of this route. After you pull the crux roof section, climb up and right (a little run) to a bolt on the right edge of the large scooped feature. Then continue up and slightly left a few more bolts to an anchor at 32 meters. I'm pretty sure that you climbed up and left a few feet after the roof and clipped the obvious "Not The Wheat" anchor. I'll explain this in the route description to alleviate future confusion.

Side note: I've lowered off this route multiple times with a 60 meter rope and it always just makes it with rope stretch. Always tie a knot in the end of your rope.
By Vlad S
Sep 5, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Tony, you are completely right. I climbed left after the roof. Thanks! What's the scoop on "not the wheat"?
By Tony Sartin
Sep 6, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Not the Wheat is IMHO one of the finest routes on the wall. A Brian Ketron creation along with the help of Tai Devore and Trevor Hobbs if I'm not mistaken. It went up and instantly made the cover of Climbing magazine a few years back. Trevor being the cover boy of course. It has a strange, fat, under driven buttonhead bolt right before the anchor. Originally, I was told that it was 11d, but some people have since claimed 11c. I personally would give it solid 11d/ easy 12a myself. Excellent regardless.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Jun 30, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The obvious hold at the roof has broken off maybe making that move a bit harder if not just different but overall grade no harder.
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 24, 2017

Stellar! Candidate for best 11c on the wall for sure.

One of the cruxes features some of the sharper crimps on the whole wall as you move leftward, so I'd recommend doing this one when your fingertips are ready for a bit of abuse.

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