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Left of the Regular Route
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Agua Dulce T 
Attitude is Everything T 
Birdleg T 
Changing Phases T 
Clast von Bulow T 
Hades T 
Mejito T 
Pyroclastic Pump T 
Ramp(?), The T 
Red Knight, The S 
Regular Route Left Variation Finish  T 
Regular Route, The T 
Remote Luxery T 
Sporting Chance T 
Tangerine Dream T 
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The Regular Route 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Yates, Steve Lauderdale, Travis Klawin
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: Muscrat on Jun 11, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

A 3 (or 4) pitch route more popular for it's ease of 'getting to the top' than for it's pure aesthetics, fun, with lots of variations and possibilities. Originally believed to be the first line on the Belly (1984); Tangerine Dream' squeezed it out by 4 years (1980)
Pitch 1: Starts just left of the toe, up an easy (5.6R) steep knobby face with little pro. 65' to the left traverse onto 'First Terrace'. Walk to the back corner of the terrace, bolted belay. 90'
Pitch 2: Climb the corner above the belay. The original line (5.8) is the leftmost crack in the corner,, there are easier variation just to the right of this. Ends on the 'Second Terrace'. 90'
Pitch 3: Head into the left corner, up a small ledge/ramp. There are many choices of cracks to choose from, the original Regular Route used the left hand crack to start, then switched into the OW/chimney to finish at the bolted belay.
Descent for 3rd Pitch: Recommended. Rap from belay to top of Second Terrace. Downclimb on belay to anchors above "Clast Von Bulow". Difficult to find if not familiar with the route.
Optional 4th pitch: NOT RECOMMENDED: Continue up through the choss, loose rock and ledges (easy 5th) to the top. From the top of the 4th pitch the descent is a short rap (you will need slings or to leave gear behind) into the scree behind the crag to the northwest. Walk/slide down dirty, loose, lousy scree to the base. Not worth it.

Location 

The climb starts just to the left of the lowest point of the crag, the toe. UP and to the left approximately 65' is the 'First Terrace'.

Protection 

Standard rack to 5" depending on the variation. Doubles in fingers and hands for some. Tricams work well on pockets throughout the park. Here as well.


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By Muscrat
Administrator
Jun 11, 2015

Fun day at the crag, almost 4 stars. The first pitch is....airy, found my first pro around 40' off the deck. Sling the piece at the start of the traverse when you get onto the first terrace, otherwise ROPE DRAG!
The descent on 2nd rap is one of the most terrifying i have done. Downclimb loose gravel above a 90' drop off. UGLY. Make sure you get belayed down. There are now higher rap anchors than the original (thanks Ricky!), but still ugh scary.
From everything i have heard, avoid the 4th pitch, you have to leave gear, surf scree, etc. Plague.
By splitclimber
Jun 12, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I remember there being good gear, but I started off to the far right to get to gear placements early. Took the right variation on the second pitch which is exciting, then went directly over to the three crack/knob climbs up and right.
By Salamanizer suchoski
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Sep 29, 2017

The second pitch was fun. First was a bit junky.

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