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Regular Route (Castle Rock Spire), The T 

The Regular Route (Castle Rock Spire) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2

Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2 [details]
FA: J Wilson, A Steck, P Bettler, W Siri (april 1950)
Page Views: 4,345
Submitted By: Schoney on Jul 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>


The route originally went @ 5.8 A2 or so. The first free ascent went down in 83 By Dick Levarsee and Rob Raker(11b). From the notch there are variations to make the start harder.The rt starts on the se side of the spire. The first coupla pitches go moderately. (we linked em) The third pitch is a tunnel through (behind the Dark Tower), and down to the crux pitch (beautiful corner/roof 5.11+ or so) More moderate climbing brings you to the topout offwidth...and awesome views!

The first ascent of each season might experience some dirt filled cracks and a little lichen. Due to a legendary rough approach, this area sees little traffic. Be prepared for an adventure. As of now, this rt. has seen less than 60 ascents. One guidebook says "the burliest approach in the Sierras"....another says "May the force be with you" while explaining the approach. It could be said that the approach is half the battle. Expect poison oak, snakes, and miles of not so obvious "trails".


The route eats up gear of all types up to 4". There are some fixed pieces for anchors, but bring extra slings and/or stoppers to back up any questionable gear. You will have to rappel the rt.Two ropes can minimize the amount of raps.

Photos of The Regular Route (Castle Rock Spire) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Some cool historic artifacts on the Reggie route.
Some cool historic artifacts on the Reggie route.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Gully.
The Gully.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start up to Dark Tower
The start up to Dark Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Turning the crux roof to the left.
Turning the crux roof to the left.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out on CRS, Moro Rock in the background.
Topping out on CRS, Moro Rock in the background.
Rock Climbing Photo: Regular route and Spikes Haridoo
BETA PHOTO: Regular route and Spikes Haridoo

Comments on The Regular Route (Castle Rock Spire) Add Comment
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By Chad Namolik
From: Three Rivers, CA
Mar 7, 2010

A great thread on supertopo about CRS & the Fin.

edit to add: Finally got to climb this beauty in March 2017. Mega-classic! Very hard approach the 'low way' from Hospital Rock. A couple ticks, a little PO, lots of 'shwackin', snow in the gully, amazing position. Pretty full value-gotta work for this one. One of my favorites.
By Guy Keesee
From: Moorpark, CA
Apr 21, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 PG13

Kris Solem and I did this climb in 1991. We did the second free ascent, 18th overall. Bill Levanthal and Rachel McCollum were right behind us the whole way... they also did it fee. This is a big adventure climb, the summit of CRS is, IMHO, the most difficult one in California. No need to bring a BOLT KIT at all... that would be a pretty weak thing to do. The whole thing is covered in good cracks. The "historical bolt" is the only one found on the regular route. It was placed because those boys didn't have any thing like a 2 inch piece at the time. We rapped the route using two 50m ropes and we left several fixed stoppers and biners. Have fun.
By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
Jun 15, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2

Mungeclimber and I topped out on this full value beauty with our intent to pay respects to our late dear friend and mentor, Brutus Of Wyde. One year ago, Bruce was on his way to meet me to climb the Spire and was killed in an auto accident. Prayer flags were left and Sapporo was consumed on the summit. Best damn summit I've ever been on! Highly recommended adventure.....if you dare!

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