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The Red Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a M7

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a M7 [details]
FA: Unknown--Winterized by Nate Brown and Sam Macke 1/22/15
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter if you want frozen moss and ice
Page Views: 573
Submitted By: Nate Brown on Jan 22, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: big slab topo

Description 

This is the best of the three mixed routes. Realistically it is a rock climb with ice and frozen turf here and there. The route would feel a grade harder if climbed while covered with fresh snow. It has excellent climbing, good gear, very hookable, steep and not too hard. Would not be as classic in the summer. (Lots of moss etc.) The first four pitches make a super, well protected M6 trad route.

Not likely a totally new route. We found one shitty pin on pitch 2. Probably an old Andy Carson route.

Pitch 1: 28 meters of M6 with 12-15' of 5.9+ hand crack. Some climbable hollow flakes at the end of the pitch should be given quarter.

Pitch 2: 25 meters of amazing, perfect hooking including about 20' of good ice and frozen moss. M6 with good gear. The plastic ice of dry-tooling. Go five feet right from anchor to start the pitch.

Pitch 3: 22 meters up dihedral under and behind the chock stone. Good ice, moss and some 4/5 Camalot offwidthing. M6 (5.8-ish OW<vert)

Pitch 4: 25 meters of frozen moss, good stemming, some steep hand crack with good stemming and great gear. M5+

Pitch 5: 20 meters. Climb the overhanging and featured OW/hand crack with a series of thuggish hook moves and a few hand jams. Pitch over hangs about 12'. M7

Pitch 5 alternative: climb around final obstacle to the right. Overhanging M6 with good gear and water ice sticks. (Climbed after rapping off top due to a "Doh" of leaving the rack on top.

Location 

30-40' left of Piton Country on the left side of the huge slab.

Protection 

Single set 0-3metolius,two each .75-2Camalot(one 3)nuts and some medium beaks. Route is equipped at every belay with 2-3.5"x3/8" stainless bolts and can be rapped with one 60-meter rope.


Photos of The Red Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down pitch 3 from the chockstone belay.
Looking down pitch 3 from the chockstone belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam hooking under the giant chockstone. Such aweso...
Sam hooking under the giant chockstone. Such aweso...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one slants right to left above Sam in photo ...
Pitch one slants right to left above Sam in photo ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping off the top. M7 pitch climbs the steep cra...
Rapping off the top. M7 pitch climbs the steep cra...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Big Slab
BETA PHOTO: The Big Slab

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