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8.5 - Red Pillar Area
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Red Pillar, The T 

The Red Pillar 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Parks, Griffin 1979
Page Views: 1,189
Submitted By: outdooreric on Jun 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Off rappel, pull your rope from here and it is smo...


This route has a 5 star rating in the old guide, but it didn't quite live up to the hype. Some loose and crumbly rock exists in the crack and it ends poorly. The middle of the climb has nice hand jams while the pillar is a fun feature to climb. Overall a route of average quality.

The first crux comes from getting off the ground and a second crux comes from leaving a stance and gaining the hand crack just after the roof traverse. Higher up there is a small crack on the left wall that accepts nuts and smaller cams.


The climb follows the left side of the namesake detached reddish pillar on the east side of the crag. The pillar is accessed by climbing to the arch and traversing left under the roof.


Standard rack with a couple 3-4" cams to protect the roof traverse under the arch.

Photos of The Red Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shawn seconding the start of the Red Pillar.  Prob...
Shawn seconding the start of the Red Pillar. Prob...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the route
Starting up the route
Rock Climbing Photo: The Red Pillar
The Red Pillar

Comments on The Red Pillar Add Comment
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By T. Page
From: Truckee, CA
Nov 7, 2010

Be careful of placing gear where the roof crack turns vertical. There was a #1 Camalot that got eaten that kept my #1 Link cam from the same fortune. The rope inevitably runs in the crack once you get above it, so a #3 under the roof and a #2 well above where the crack turns vertical seems like the best option.

Just my 2c. Have fun, it's a Great Climb!
By JGHarrison harrison
From: Reno, NV
Apr 28, 2012

FYI, the perfect lieback pic up in the description is from the route called "perfect lieback" not the Red Pillar.

I had issues with getting the rope stuck on this, bring some webbing to leave on rap...If this thing ever gets retrobolted seems to me that it would be better to put them on top of the pillar, instead of where they are at currently...just for rope drag issues.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Feb 2, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A good route with sustained movement but with questionable rock quality higher up on it. The anchor placement is absolutely puzzling to me. Very odd to have to make illogical abd sketchy moves w rope drag up to the anchor. Gear to 4".
By Laine Christman
From: Reno, NV
Mar 25, 2013

The move off the pillar to the top is exciting. Anchor condition and placement leaves much to be desired. I had rope issues as well. Good overall.
May 27, 2013

Just around the corner right of Red Pillar is "First Crux" a nice short 5.9 clean crack and layback.
By csproul
From: Davis, CA
Mar 20, 2016

The 5.9 moves from the top of the pillar to the anchors step right and go around the face. Best to not place any pro if doing this step right, or you will have bad rope drag. Going straight up the face looks more like 5.10 and unprotectable with fall potential back to the pillar.

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