|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA:||Reed and Jarrard, 1988|
|Submitted By:||ChanVan on Jun 19, 2009|
|Comments on The Recommendation||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ben Sachs
Jun 20, 2009
|The route is short as is, let's not make it worse.|
By Alexander Blum
From: Charlotte, NC
Aug 30, 2010
|the end of the route is NOT up high-the original finish was to a gear anchor slightly below where the current low bolted anchor is.|
From: western NC
Jul 8, 2013
Did this route again today after having not been on it in probably 10 years or more. I'm not 100% sure about the original anchor but there used to be 2 cold shuts about 30' higher than the current one (next to what I understood to be the original anchor - stopper/bashie and old pin). Supposedly the 4th bolt was also added after the FA, as there used to be a fixed wire in that horizontal just above. Resources from the TK guide and friends; have not personally asked either of the FA parties.
Either way, and for some reason, the new anchor bolts are insanely rusty - seriously. I don't know why, but they look like they've been sitting in a water streak for 20+ years... Otherwise, they look like they were placed well, just badly corroded.
It's certainly not my call, but It seems like the best place for an anchor would have been between the old one and the new one, in the bulge about 15' higher. Just my 2 cents worth.
By Neil Rankin
From: Winston-Salem, NC
May 16, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
|Such a pity. This could have been a really classic 1-bolt route and it wouldn't even be R-rated. As it is now, it's just a little route with no jizm left. The anchor situation will be fixed this year. In the meantime, I've left a delta quicklink on the retro bolt that is 18 inches below the retro anchor. Please use it as a backup on the final lower off.|