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The Raw and the Roasted 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rick Thompson, Pat Thompson, John Musso
Page Views: 4,036
Submitted By: SirVato on Aug 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (138)
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Taking a break before the race to the finish!


This is the first route to the right of "Gastoned Again". Superb!

Follow 4 bolts up a short, prickly arete to a large ledge (1st and 4th bolts are easily skippable). Now for the fun. Climb solid stone to a small roof. Rest and prepare for the crux. Pull around the overlap to the left and begin the business.


This route is just right of Gastoned Again on the Mammoth Wall in the Gym Area.


13 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of The Raw and the Roasted Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Best route at Shelf.
Best route at Shelf.

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By DavidHH
From: Parker, Colorado
Oct 26, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Brilliant climbing! This route to me seemed like 3 mini routes. The first being the coral reef arete (5.8) then to the wonderfully crimpy wall to the roof (10b/c), grab a no hands head jam rest or a great kneebar to shake out before the business. Over the roof comes the business culminating with a dynamic move to a good jug just below the anchors. Best route in the 11 range I have done at Shelf!
By jhump
Mar 4, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A fun route with great holds throughout. More than a few notches softer than its neighbor "In the morning you'll be mine." I found it to be easier than some 11b's at Shelf.
By Joshua1979
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 22, 2011

What an incredible line. I will probably climb this every time I'm at The Gym. If winter, climb it early in the day while it's still in the sun.
By Dan Foster
From: Denver, CO
Oct 21, 2013

Probably one of the best 11s in Shelf. I think the grade gets a 'soft' reputation, because the movement is fairly straightforward, you can see where you need to go (most of the time), you just have make the moves. The upper section definitely earns whatever letter of 5.11 you feel is most appropriate for your efforts.
By Moritz B.
Mar 15, 2015

Solid 5.11 climbing in the upper part, but you get a great no-hands rest under the roof before that.
By Skyler B
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 17, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This route should be on the hit list of anyone climbing at this grade at Shelf! So cool! The upper part did not seem as cruxy as the moves right off the ledge. Great route that is just as cool and longer than most of the other 5.11s I have done at Shelf.

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