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Finishing the first pitch of the Rash
The Rash has two distinctly different pitches that are equally entertaining. Neither is ideal for a novice 5.8 leader.
1. Layback the right-facing flake, which is steep and sustained for the 5.7 grade. The flake crack takes nuts and small cams but is parallel and a flexy in places. About 50 feet up, the main flake peters out, so face climb up and step right onto a pedestal. Place a 1½ cam under the overlap and upward to the belay ledge. Recommended 5 small (<1") cams to protect the flake.
2. The first 80 feet is the "Rash", a unique stairway of scoops and knobs. It is easy (mid-fifth max) and entertaining climbing but entirely unprotected, with the first bolt about 70 feet above the belay! After youve clipped it and thanked your higher power of choice, move past a small cam placement, then pad left past the technical crux (5.8) and another bolt to the belay. Warning: Before launching, check whether the upper Rash is wet.
Descend the route (or its neighbor on climbers left) via double rope rappels.
Historical note: Pitch one, as described above, was originally part of a different route called When Butterflies Kiss Bumblebees.
The route is on the south aspect of Three O Clock Rock. Starting at the Eightmile trailhead (cant miss the official FS sign), follow the standard trail approach to Three O Clock Rock. The trail starts on a bouldery abandoned road grade through small timber then old growth before popping out into an open talus slope with ferns.
About 100 yards into the talus, find a climber's trail heading straight upward toward the crag, which is plainly visible (if you miss the turnoff, youll find yourself at the base of the North Buttress slab). Hike and boulder-hop to the crag and head left along its base, underneath the Great Arch.
As you wrap around the base, the trail gets steeper and scrambles up a small corner. From the high point, the flake system is visible. Belay on the sloping ramp where the route starts preferably with a piece or two.
Gear: Medium rack to 2 (numerous cams ½ to 1 ½) and quickdraws. Anchors and pro bolts are modern 3/8"
"Isn't there supposed to be a bolt up here so...
BETA PHOTO: The Rash route heads up the right-facing flake abo...