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Three O'clock Rock
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Ginsu T 
Magic Bus T 
Masters of the Universe S 
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Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 
Rash, The T 
Road to Nowhere T 
Silent Running T 
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Total Soul T 
Under the Bored Walk S 

The Rash 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Brooks, Syrjala 1980
Season: When dry (mostly summer or fall)
Page Views: 525
Submitted By: Curtveld on Mar 1, 2014

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Finishing the first pitch of the Rash

Description 

The Rash has two distinctly different pitches that are equally entertaining. Neither is ideal for a novice 5.8 leader.

1. Layback the right-facing flake, which is steep and sustained for the 5.7 grade. The flake crack takes nuts and small cams but is parallel and a flexy in places. About 50 feet up, the main flake peters out, so face climb up and step right onto a pedestal. Place a 1½” cam under the overlap and upward to the belay ledge. Recommended 5 small (<1") cams to protect the flake.

2. The first 80 feet is the "Rash", a unique stairway of scoops and knobs. It is easy (mid-fifth max) and entertaining climbing but entirely unprotected, with the first bolt about 70 feet above the belay! After you’ve clipped it and thanked your higher power of choice, move past a small cam placement, then pad left past the technical crux (5.8) and another bolt to the belay. Warning: Before launching, check whether the upper Rash is wet.

Descend the route (or it’s neighbor on climbers left) via double rope rappels.

Historical note: Pitch one, as described above, was originally part of a different route called “When Butterflies Kiss Bumblebees”.

Location 

The route is on the south aspect of Three O Clock Rock. Starting at the Eightmile trailhead (can’t miss the official FS sign), follow the standard trail approach to Three O Clock Rock. The trail starts on a bouldery abandoned road grade through small timber then old growth before popping out into an open talus slope with ferns.

About 100 yards into the talus, find a climber's trail heading straight upward toward the crag, which is plainly visible (if you miss the turnoff, you’ll find yourself at the base of the North Buttress slab). Hike and boulder-hop to the crag and head left along its base, underneath the Great Arch.

As you wrap around the base, the trail gets steeper and scrambles up a small corner. From the high point, the flake system is visible. Belay on the sloping ramp where the route starts – preferably with a piece or two.

Protection 

Gear: Medium rack to 2” (numerous cams ½ to 1 ½”) and quickdraws. Anchors and pro bolts are modern 3/8"


Photos of The Rash Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Isn't there supposed to be a bolt up here so...
"Isn't there supposed to be a bolt up here so...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Rash route heads up the right-facing flake abo...
BETA PHOTO: The Rash route heads up the right-facing flake abo...

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