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Icicle Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch, The T 
Bumper Belay S 
Canadians On Horseback S 
Cocaine Connection S 
Cocaine Crack T 
Forking Crack T 
I Didn't Exhale S 
R & D T 
Ramp, The T 
Spaghetti Sauce T 
Tober T,S 

The Ramp 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 436
Submitted By: geoff georges on Jan 26, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

A worthwhile climb up the middle of Icicle Buttress. Maybe hard for a new 5.8 leader.
The 1st pitch goes up a wide blocky crack to a flaring but low angle hand crack to belay at the face of a steep wall above with a small tree or horizontal cracks under for a belay.
2nd pitch is a huge rightward traverse below the upper wall all the way out to the top, 5.8 lay back up on the last part. The Kramar guide calls the layback 5.8, but I did not find this, mostly low angle and not recommended. The first pitch is worth doing, just traverse left below or above the small tree belay to get onto last crack of R&D.

Location 

Starts about mid way up the Buttress on a sloping bench that crosses all the way over to Cocaine crack. About 50' right of R&D. There are two cracks in sort of an inside corner, the left one is the 5.8. Cocaine connection would be a good approach pitch.Or even better approach keeping it all cracks would be the Arch , 5.8, and Forking crack, 5.9, and then wander across wet mossy slabs up and left.

Protection 

gear to 3". no fixed anchors.


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By Drederek
Aug 21, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought the wide option just past the double roof was a fun way to get thru the upper wall to the top

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