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Richard belays as Ryan climbs above the roof on Pi...
Mike Hill's guide has a pretty good topo of this route including the below P2 variation.
P1: climb the trough up to an ample belay ledge on the left; 5.5, ~80 feet.
P2: step out on the face and then up past a bolt, piton, and a second bolt and then up to a ~horizontal ledge system; take this ledge system right to the first tree and belay; ~80 feet, 5.7;
P2 var: at the ~horizontal ledge system, continue straight up a smallish crack system, getting pro where you can; surmount a large ledge with two bolts on the ledge and belay; ~80 feet, 5.8. PG13 for pro.
P3: continue up easy terrain above the first tree; getting pro where you can; attain a ~horizontal vegetated ledge/weakness with bolt to the right; trend right and then up past a bolt; in short order, find belay ledge at base of a relatively clean dihedral; ~80 feet, 5.6/5.7.
P4: climb above the belay, up the dihedral, quickly reaching a piton; from here, if desired, one can make a diversion up and left to get pro high and then downclimb; back at the piton, trend up and right on runout terrain until can come back left to edge of a roof and pro; climb past the roof and continue up until forest needles are under foot; at that point look right to large belay tree with slings; ~80 feet, 5.7.
The Ramp route is down Echo Canyon on skier's right. There are two ways to approach the climb:
i) follow climber's trail almost to Crackula and then trend to the skier's right side of the canyon and down to the start; however, it was years ago when I went this way so someone else may have a better description; I do recall a fair amount of bushwhacking.
ii) we did this approach based on a description from Marc Beverly: stay on climber's trail past Crackula and almost to Bush Shark Spire
route (skier's left side of canyon); about 30 yards before the start of Bush Shark Spire
, the climber's trail reaches a low point before gaining elevation; at this low point look for a faint trail cutting across the vegetated gully to talus; at the talus head up through more vegetation (some further pruning here would be nice), and then 3rd class climbing to the base of the climb.
The exit: continue up above the top-of-P4 belay tree for 20 feet or so, then traverse northerly and down a little into a gully that one ascends to get up near the summit of The Point. This gully is challenging. Instead, consider getting up on the ~east shoulder of The Point by climbing out of the gully to the right on Runnel Runner
Standard rack to 3".
High quality natural protection at the top of p4. ...
Ryan leading Pitch 1, just below the belay ledge.
Richard ascending the face past the bolts/piton on...
Jeremy following the mellow, but superb, face clim...
BETA PHOTO: This is looking down from mid-route, showing where...
BETA PHOTO: The opening terrain of P3, after the 5.8 var of P2...
Bill n Bill on start of P1.
BETA PHOTO: Photo taken from skier's left side of canyon, 30 y...
Jun 7, 2010
A good P1 variation tackles the face directly; look for a bolt 10-15 above the start. The face is clean and the rock is bomb. Although I wouldn't call the pro abundant, it's there when you need it and I never felt sketched. And my legs usually start shaking when I get 1 ft. above my gear...
For the grade, I think it's an excellent pitch.
By Chris Tucker
Jul 12, 2010
Did this yesterday with Mark Thomas and his friend Brad. Really enjoyed the entire experience, this would be my first Grade II and it felt like it. Felt totally committed the whole time. The exposure on the Rudder was really at my mental limits. Thanks Mark for being so calm and collected, it really helped.
MArk and Brad also on-sighted the rightmost sport climb on the back side of the rudder below the raps, I think it's 505? That was amazing as well!
Dec 8, 2016
The piton on the fourth pitch fell out November 2016.