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Quartz Crack, The T 

The Quartz Crack 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 420'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Andy Hoyt and Josh Varney
Page Views: 659
Submitted By: The Shocker on Nov 11, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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The Quartz crack

Description 

5 star sustained splitter finger crack for 35 meter second pitch. Unarguably the best finger crack in Hatcher Pass. The first pitch is 5.7 and loose to access the goods. The third pitch dead ends in choss. The crack/face to the left of quartz crack is a grade or two harder, has been top roped not lead, needs bolts at the bouldery start.

Location 

Right side of the lower east face has on obvious swath of steep white stone 50 meters up. This hosts the quartz crack.

Protection 

Belay at top of pitch one has one bolt anchor.


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By Prezwoodz Gray
From: Anchorage, Alaska
Jun 19, 2016

I'm not sure I'd consider this pitch 35m. Unless you're talking about going all the way to the top of the formation but isn't the anchor on the top of the first ledge?
Rock Climbing Photo: Quartz Crack
Quartz Crack


I've always wanted to put this climb in the book as well as others from the wall. I feel like it would be great if someone took on the project of actually documenting and printing the larger alpine climbs and adventures of Hatcher. My book is definitely more of a crag guide but there is a need for more.
By The Shocker
Jun 20, 2016

If you've taken pictures of a route, and climbed a route, and know how long it is, what's stopping you from putting it in a guidebook? Just a whole lot of Derp? Broken pencil maybe?
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jun 22, 2016

Sounds like a fun project Kelsey! unfortunately I can't get up a 5.10. so I'd have to rate EVERYTHING I climb 5.9+. Quartz crack is fun, should be in the guide. What shouldn't be included in the guide is Alaskan Vermin. The first pitch is GREAT, but the approach choss isn't worth it.
By The Shocker
Jun 22, 2016

^^^

Alpine climbing isn't for everyone. I heard there are a whole bunch of great 5.9s at the ARG. Maybe just stay in there?

Or climb in the BIT wall when the approach is covered in snow, like an intelligent and experienced person would, instead of going up there when it's melted out, like a total neophyte would?

Derp?
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jun 23, 2016

If you love BIT wall so much, or hatcher so much, please join the rest of us in the 21st century and use hardware that will last longer than you, grandpa. STAINLESS STEEL. Go fix your climbs, don't leave it to Junior and Glacierglasses, they're tired of it.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Jun 23, 2016

Pretty sure I climbed this thing last summer and pretty sure it was the crack to the right of the guy aiding in Kelsey's photo. Pitch is good for sure, but the good part is like 20 ft. long. Didn't find an anchor on top of it. Downclimbed to the right back to the ledge on top of pitch 1.
By The Shocker
Jun 28, 2016

Brian is correct, the actual finger crack itself is not 35 meters. Kelsey is wrong, as usual. As originally climbed, the second pitch continues for 15-20 meters past the finger crack to a rap anchor. A third pitch was aborted because it ends in total choss.
Junior- mind telling us which routes you've "fixed" for me?
If you really want to complain to someone about the use of non STAINLESS!! bolts, you could write a letter to my hardware sponsor. I'm sure they would really love to hear your opinion. Although, they are a bunch of Grandpas like me, and might just laugh at you.
By The Shocker
Jul 1, 2016

  • Crickets*
By Prezwoodz Gray
From: Anchorage, Alaska
Nov 22, 2016

I'm sorry were you waiting for a response?

The description says pitch one is 5.7 to access the crack. I assumed that meant the second pitch was the crack. Then you get into some other stuff and head up although I remember you saying that the crack ends at the top of it where we anchored in the picture and you don't really go further then that. So I don't know who's wrong but it doesn't really matter. I was just questioning the length of the crack which seems legitimate since you're being misleading.

The reason I don't put it into the book is because its is a single route high in the valley on a massive wall. I didn't want to put that random route into the book until I had a lot more information on the surrounded crags. I've been increasing that information and now have some info on several other areas but I haven't made it to a place I'm happy with yet on that valley. I'm not sure why you're worried about since you always just bash the book anyway. So make up your mind on if you want things in or if you don't. Then you can actually contribute instead of whine about what is not in there.

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