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Wheat Thin T 

The Pygmies Got Stoned 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dan Sperlock, 1989
Page Views: 4,207
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 8, 2004

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Jonny on The Pygmies Got Stoned. 7/19/16.


This sport climb starts to the right of Wheat Thin. You can start from the upper ledge or from the dirt. Well protected face and slab climbing is the name of the game. A good climb to do while waiting in line for the nearby trad classics. Enjoyable moves and position...



Photos of The Pygmies Got Stoned Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Pygmies Got Stoned
BETA PHOTO: The Pygmies Got Stoned
Rock Climbing Photo: slaabb
Rock Climbing Photo: Wyatt copping a rest
Wyatt copping a rest
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the last sun of the day...
Enjoying the last sun of the day...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful shot of Sarah Taylor and the right side ...
Beautiful shot of Sarah Taylor and the right side ...

Comments on The Pygmies Got Stoned Add Comment
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By Nathan Fisher
Sep 11, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I believe 9 draws plus two for the anchors. A high first bolt and well-spaced bolts in the easier ground. I believe between 2 and 3 was the worst, but not runout. A really nice line with great moves. The brown face in the middle just keeps coming at you. Would get 4 stars if the climbing was like that all the way. The finish almost spat me off as I was clipping the chains. Well worth climbing.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 15, 2008

If you like thin face climbing you'll like this one. A good route that is probably harder than it looks.
By ktmt
From: Missoula, MT
Nov 15, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

One of the few routes I've done at the City that seemed overclimbed: polished, greasy. Maybe it was just the day, but felt stiff for the grade. I won't rush back to it.
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
Jun 7, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun lead. The middle slab has some technical moves with crimper edge hand holds and makes you think.
By Fat Paul
From: Central, NJ
Jun 12, 2009

Precise smears and crimpy side pulls on the right move you through the crux.
By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 20, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Very well protected by City of Rocks standards. Good slab climbing, maybe slightly more difficult than the slab on Just Say No.
By Roy Suggett
Sep 28, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Wish I had a wrench with me...many spinning hangers. Someone might want to give those a tightening.
By richard magill
Jul 3, 2016

very nice! time for replacement bolts, I think. anchor is due for sure

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