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The Prow 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Gordon Wiltsie, Jay Jensen (FA, 1970's) -- Dale Bard, Bob Harrington (FFA crux pitch, 1980's) -- Peter Croft, Dayle Mazzarella (FFA entire route, 2000
Page Views: 2,734
Submitted By: Bryan G on Apr 22, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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This is one of the most classic climbs on the eastside. Originally an aid route, and now a stellar free climb. 4 pitches of varied jam cracks on excellent rock and great position right on the spine of the buttress. The crux pitch is an intimidating lead, but the climb can be easily toproped because it is also the best rappel route from the summit.

Pitch 1 (5.10a): Climb the first pitch of West Face

Pitch 2 (5.9): Climb most of the second pitch of the West Face, but instead of traversing right around the arete, move left on a shelf to a bolted anchor below the large overhang/roof.

Pitch 3 (5.12b): Continuous climbing up the face and featured corner leads through the overhang. The gear here is thin and sparse. (5.11b R) This leads to a stance below a beautiful splitter. The crack is mostly fingers, and jogs left in the middle. Near the end it widens into off-fingers. Fight the pump all the way to the anchors.

Pitch 4 (5.8 or 5.10d): The Bard-Harrington Finish is the choice way to end the climb, but the original finish (from back when this was an aid route) is a 5.8 crack around to the left.

To descend, rappel the route with one 70m rope.


Pro to 3"
Bring extra thin stuff for the 5.11R, and save a handful of finger size cams for the splitter afterwards.

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By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Nov 4, 2011

The crack on p3 is amazing, although I only toproped it. It would be a scary lead, not just for the "r" factor in the 5.11 climbing getting up to the crack, but because the climbing involves pulling straight out on some pretty friable flakes that might break, no matter how solid a climber you are.

I'm wondering, has anyone done p3 without the 5.11R start, but by doing a lower angle, unprotected left traverse from the belay of "Shadow in the Rain," which is above the roof and to the right of the Prow crack? It looks like easier climbing.
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Jul 2, 2014

My friend Bernd Zeugswetter and I climbed this in June. Perfect rock climb—with the exception of the funky 11ish climbing before the upper 12b portion. Bernd led the pitch very impressively, and climbed up and down the 5.11 portion several times before committing, then I followed clean. The lower portion isn't terribly hard, just weird and hard to protect since some of the flakes aren't totally solid. You CAN protect it, however. Just get creative.

The upper portion climbs like a 12b sport-climb. Charge it! Gear is solid, movement is sporty, and positioning is unparalleled.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Jan 31, 2016

To me, the lower face section is the crux for sure, and definitely tricky gear. The finger crack is amazing 5.11 fingers.. can't be harder than, say, espresso crack, yeah?
By Jordan Cannon
From: Bishop, CA
Jun 8, 2016

The crack is 5.12 for sure, definitely harder than Espresso Crack. But the gear is great, the jams are solid, and the rock is perfect. Go for it! I found good gear on the 11b R section with two small C3's and some micro stoppers, which protect the hardest moves fairly well and then it's runout over easier terrain. Best to do this one in the shade in my opinion.
By cdavey
Jan 18, 2017

I found protecting the R section to be useless and possibly even more dangerous for you and your belayer if you were to blow it, with the exception of one decent brassy placement right around the hard moves. The crack is outrageous, awesome crack climbing with a tough little section in the middle. An intimidating lead, but totally worth it. I agree, 5.12 for sure. So much fun!

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