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BETA PHOTO: 5.8 Goat climbing after the first bouldery face.
Start by making a couple bouldery moves to gain the long slab. Continue up the slab over the occasional loose block. As the route turns vertical at about the half way point, the climb really begins. At this point, climb up using some strange holds to reach the 1st overhang. When you are pulling the 1st overhang and clipping the bolt at the lip, a few of the key holds move, but they appear to be captured. Continue up and a bit left (optional gear here). Now the hard stuff begins. Make a long reach to a small hold, aiming for the giant protrusion. Rock up on to that and reach up into horizontal below the final overhang. Traverse a bit right and then straight up to the shuts. The climbing over the last 3 bolts is amazing and surely where the 5.12b rating comes from. This route would be very popular if it began at the upper overhanging prow section. 60M rope required.
The route begins on the white face about 15 feet to the left of Skull In Hole, 5.12a.
11 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Oct 24, 2015
My 60m rope didn't quite reach the deck on lower. Maybe 10' short.
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 24, 2015
Good to know, my 60m sterling 9.2 did reach, so it all depends on your rope brand and length. Sounds like a 70m would be best for this climb. Thanks!