BETA PHOTO: The Prow, lit up in front of the Shield. Photo by...
|Juan Tabo Canyon is subject to annual access closures from March 1 to August 15. MORE INFO >>>|
This isolated, minor peak lies on the ridgeline that extends northwest from The Needle
; this connecting ridge forms the southern margin of upper Juan Tabo Canyon. Although nearly 600 feet tall, the Prow is dwarfed by the nearby formations of the Needle and the Shield
The base of the Prow lies at about 8400 feet and the summit elevation, according to USGS topos, is 8968 feet. Still, the Prow lies in a scrubby, sparsely forested area mainly consisting of pinon, prickly pear, yucca, cholla, and Apache plume, so its not exactly in an alpine setting
Several 4th class mountaineering and 5th class rock routes scale the peak. The earliest recorded ascent was in 1948, although earlier climbs are suspected. The climbing history and routes are pretty well outlined in Hills guidebook (1993), and Kline's earlier book (1970) actually has some good route descriptions too.
The standard 1.5+ hour approach is from below, using the Piedra Lisa Trail
to access the Movie Trail. Once you inevitably lose track of this Movie Trail, stick to the crest of the ridgeline as it turns from the northeast toward the southeast (be sure to check out UNM Spire across the canyon to the north). The ridge leads you to the foot of the northwest ridge of the Prow. From there, traverse along the base of the western and southern faces to gain the route of your choice.
The Northwest Ridge route is listed by Kline and Hill as one of two descent routes. This line apparently requires two rappels: the first down to the east end of a broad ramp using a large dead tree as your first rappel anchor. Then walk down the ridge [and]
perform the second rappel off a large flake, ending up just south of the ridge proper. Two ropes are helpful when descending the northwest ridge. (Note: I have not used this descent route).
The second descent route described by Kline and Hill follows the Southeast Ridge route, a Class 4 mountaineering scramble that ascends the east-southeast face of the Prow. To descend this route, from the summit drop straight down the steep and unlikely looking east face, aiming directly for the ridgeline saddle at the base of the east side of the Prow. Theoretically, the whole route could/maybe/possibly be down-climbed, but two single-rope rappels will facilitate this descent (60m rope necessary, with some rope stretch). We didnt find the large, rounded boulder rap anchor that Hill described. Instead, there are some tied-off mountain mahogany
bushes for anchors (yeah! Those shrubberies are bomber!).
Climbing Season For the Juan Tabo Canyon area.
Weather station 1.4 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Prow
Hanging Sling Buttress 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PG13 New Mexico
: Sandia Mountains
: ... : The Prow
This 5-pitch route is described in Hills Hikers and Climbers Guide to the Sandias (both 2nd and 3rd editions; dont know about 1st ed.). Hills description is generally good, and nearly the entire first four pitches are visible from the base of the route. Parts of P1-P3 may be able to be linked, but the route wanders a bit so this may not work as well as hoped.P1. ~110 feet, 5.7. Start up a large, broken, brushy, right-facing dihedral. Belay on a ledge with an antique ...[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico
The Prow - from the southeast - the Shield is behi...