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Prow, The T,TR 

The Prow 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Chris Craig, 80's
Page Views: 1,673
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Oct 3, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: The Prow from twopictures sliced together. The bo...


The left-most climb on the main face of the wall, The Prow is pretty steep for a .10a trad route, but most of the holds are pretty bomber.

Start on a slab with two bolts before attaining the ledge that the main face towers over. It is wise to use long slings on these two bolts - or to unclip the first bolt once past the difficult move - because you'll feel the rope drag up top.

After the ledge, there's a .4" or .5" cam placement to protect moves on diagnol ramps/cracks below the first bolt. At the first bolt, the climbing gets steep as you pull up a discontinuous crack system on the blunt arete. Continue up this crack system as it gets less steep and leans to the right then power up to the finish.


Three bolts and gear to 3".

I'm 'pretty sure' you can walk around to the left to setup a top rope. There are three bolts up top for an anchor, though you should also bring slings long enough to get the rope over the side of the cliff (~15').

Need 2 ropes to toprope.

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By YardOnThis
Dec 10, 2004

The Prow (10a) is incredible. Oops, I mean, don't go there, move along, bad bugs, loose rock...
By Michael Creel
Oct 5, 2007

We did this route in '89 or '90, but we might not have been the first. There was a very poor 1/4 rawl drive with a retreat sling where the 3rd bolt is marked on the photo. I pulled that bolt and put in a new one. When did the 2 bolts low down get added?

There are several other good routes out there not mentioned on this site. A 5.8 or so to the L of the Prow, and at least 4 other good routes to the R of the Fin, one of them a nice 12a arete. If anyone knows where Chris is, let me know!
By weschrist
Jul 30, 2011

I did this 5 years ago and remember being very attentive, but didn't feel R. TR'd it yesterday and thought it would be a sketchy lead. I guess I was having a good day when I led it.
By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Jun 22, 2012

I confess that I placed that poor 1/4" bolt up there around 1985/86. Kristi Stouffer and I gave it a try. That was the only bolt I had with me that day and above there gave me the heebie-geebies without have one or two more to throw in. It was a ground up attempt, no previewing and we never got back to try it again. I only placed that one bolt. I don't know who did the lower two, but there was nothing there when we gave it a go.
By Salamanizer suchoski
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

The part from the ledge to the first bolt is definitely runnout. It's easy but if you blow a move you're going about 60ft to the deck. If that's not runnout, then very little out there really is.

The climbing was fun up the arete. Good gear after the bolt but not very sustained.
By J. Hickok
Aug 16, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Amazing that this line ends up going with almost all gear - it's beautiful. Great climbing, and is now one of my personal favorites anywhere. If so desired, the easy climbing to that first bolt on the upper face CAN be protected with a smaller 0.5-0.75" cam and by slinging a knob if desired. After placing this pro you simply climb right and then left up the ramp, or go straight up the much harder climbing in the little dish. Two ropes to get down, or a 70m with an easy 5th class downclimb.

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