REI Community
South America Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Border Crossing T 
Fern Crack T 
Flakes Alive T 
Good Book, The T 
Horcrux, The S 
Layback T 
Little Orphan Angry T 
Prophecy, The T 
South America Flake  T 

The Prophecy 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FFA- LeeHansche 9/1/17 (TR) 9/3/17 (Lead)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 3, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
This was my rack. Not what you would call "wi...

Description 

Due to extremely persistent wetness this line has gone nearly unnoticed for decades. I however love a nice thin crack and I am also extremely persistent.

So I cleaned it out 2 years ago in hopes that it would dry out easier if it was clean. I removed moss, lichen, MGS (mysterious green slime) and a good amount of chossy rock. Though I came back regularly to check on it I started to think It would never dry. This past week however the unthinkable happened and the perma-wet crack enjoyed a whole week of dryness. I put in two session on it (the second being an alpine start to beat the coming rains and for I know another two years of wetness) and sent on my second lead attempt.

Most of the difficulty is neatly packaged in the first 15-20 feet. A devious v4/5 boulder problem. After that you get a good shake and some 5.10 climbing until the final bit up to and over the mantle move finish. There is an anchor just over the lip but I feel like an anchor would be helpful higher up and would encourage folks to be sure to top it out since the mantle is the redpoint crux. I just climbed up to the trees above and lowered off of a sling.

Good luck with the wetness but if it's dry and you like this sort of thing, GET AFTER IT!

Location 

Between The Good Book and The Horcrux there is a perfectly vertical blank wall with horizontal breaks. This route climbs the thin seam that splits the center of the wall.

Protection 

I used a Purple C3 precariously placed in a pod to protect the crux about 10 feet off the ground.
I placed 2 small-ish nuts side by side in the good rest hold after the crux. Then reached up to place a #4 stopper in the next good pod. Finally a #5 stopper that protects the upper crux. On the redpoint I ran it out all the way through the top out above the #5 then clipped one of the old anchor bolts before continuing all the way up to the trees.
I plan to install a better/higher anchor than the one that is there now.


Photos of The Prophecy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting in to the crux
Getting in to the crux

Comments on The Prophecy Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About