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The Devil's Chimney Cliff
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Promised Land, The T 

The Promised Land 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 270'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: P Littlejohn, K Darbyshire, 16th April 1974
Page Views: 16
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Sep 15, 2014

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Description 

One of the finest sea cliff adventures on the island: inspired route-finding on an intimidating cliff.

P1, 30m, 5c.
A committing start on good but often greasy holds gains a standing position at about 3m. Trend left onto the black slab, then up to the left-facing groove beneath the enormous roof system. Cross left under the roofs for about 5m until directly beneath a wide slot. This is where it starts to get wild! Pull up on good holds to get established in a back-and-foot position is the slot, then squirm upwards and outwards - incredibly exposed - until a crack on the right comes within reach. Swing out on the crack and hand-traverse out of the slot back onto the front face before standing up on the crack. Belay here.

P2, 20m, 6a.
Follow the groove above the stance to a good rest about 8m above the belay. From here a peg should be visible protruding from the copious "astroturf" lichen on the slab to the right. A very delicate traverse across the slab (or a sneaky pull on the peg) gains a line of good holds. Follow these up and slightly rightwards to a small, disintegrating belay ledge.

P3, 40m, 5b.
Move left from the ledge into a wide crack, and follow it for about 3m to a prominent spike on the right. Move up and right on vegetated holds to gain a standing position on a grassy ledge. Follow a vague, right-facing groove above the ledge then improvise up the cleanest, most solid holds you can find to the top.

The name supposedly refers to Lundy island itself. By half way up P3, I was thinking a more appropriate reference would be the promise of solid land at the top!

Location 

Start towards the right end of a black slab, beneath a leftward-facing groove at about 15m and at apparently the only good holds on the wall.

Protection 

A varied rack of wires and cams. Double ropes and extending draws essential to protect the first pitch. The P1 belay has a fixed piton of unknown vintage (can and should be backed up!) and there is another peg protecting the P2 traverse.


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