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The Procrastinator 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mary & Tai Devore
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 791
Submitted By: Shadow Ayala on Mar 5, 2012

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First ascent photo of The Procrastinator 5.12a (Ma...

Description 

Start on good rock to the right of the old school rusty chain anchor and single button head. Climb the face and ledges to the base of the obvious dihedral. The dihedral is classic and fun. Climb easy ground for 3 bolts. When the dihedral closes, no hands stemming and reachy moves on slopers and vertical micro edges keeps things interesting. Insecure and creative climbing up the slippery, varnished corner brings you to the bouldery crux at the top. The steep bulge at the chains offers up a hard to read boulder problem that makes you think twice about your tactics. Guaranteed.

Location 

At the top of the Negress Wall. You can scramble in from the central gorge approach trail. There is a bolted belay.

Protection 

10 bolts


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By rickziegler Ziegler
Dec 5, 2015

Rumor has it that this route is closer to 12b. Looks cool up there!
By Mary Devore
Dec 7, 2016

Sorry Shadow- gotta set the record straight. The first ascent was done by Mary and Tai Devore. Tai was feeling bad the day we had a photo shoot for The Procrastinor and Better Late Than Never so I sent them. Tai of course did so much of the cleaning and other things, I helped out and then got the FA. Bruce Willey has the photos to document it. I am pretty sure we had rated it 12a but we will go back and do them again to double check if I can ever get Tai back to the Gorge.
Tai was supposed to do the 2nd ascent so we took off a hanger and left the rope up. He got bored of the gorge as he moved in to PC for better climbing. He forgot we ever did it and left the rope up there so long Shadow thought he could get the FA. But it was already done-just forgotten to Tai.
Mary Devore
By Jeff Scheuerell
Dec 7, 2016

??? Your saying you and Tai cleaned, bolted and sent this route then Shadow claimed a first? Really? Who does that?
By Shadow Ayala
From: Lexington, Kentucky
Dec 8, 2016

I had no idea that it had been done. I was just going off of what Tai told me. He told me to go out there and do the FA. Way to make a person look bad, thanks a lot Mary. Incidentally, I do NOT just jump on other peoples projects, even if the rope has been hanging for years. You should get your facts straight lady.
By Mary Devore
Dec 8, 2016

Shadow i am filling in the facts for you now. I am sorry that it was misleading because Tai forgot, but the FA was done in Spring 2010.
By Shadow Ayala
From: Lexington, Kentucky
Dec 8, 2016

I could care less about the FA. I was talking about your comment. "He forgot we ever did it and left the rope up there so long Shadow thought he could get the FA." You make it sound like I helped myself to the route because the rope was up for years. Hence Jeff's comment. That is not what happened.

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