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Old Man Spire
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Prize, The S 

The Prize 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 260'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chaves and Orton
Page Views: 522
Submitted By: hotlum on Apr 3, 2016

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Third Pitch of "The Prize"

Description 

This route has good rock, great moves, and awesome exposure. It ascends the slightly overhanging southeast arête for 4 pitches.
First pitch is 5.10c to a large ledge (50'). The second pitch is pumpy 5.11b to a nice belay ledge(60'). The third pitch is the crux, with a technical 5.11b/c move right after the first bolt and will continue with sustained 5.10- just on the right side of the arête (90'). The fourth and final pitch, 5.11b, is wildly exposed until the final anchor just below the summit (60').
The route can be rappelled with two ropes, but the belay ledge at the top of the third pitch HAS snagged ropes before. The standard descent off the Spire is from the chains on the north side of the spire with double ropes (1 rappel). Once on terra firma descend the loose gully back around to the base of the climb.

Location 

Obvious arête on the downhill side of the spire.

Protection 

Bolts and bolted belays. Bring 12 quickdraws and a few slings plus anchor material. The belays have chains and are comfortable.


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By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
Jul 31, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Best route in Orygun? Sustained pitches, no giveaway but it's all there!

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