REI Community
4 - Arch Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anticipation T 
Application T 
Bin, The T 
Blotto AKA Axis T 
Dirty Little Secret T 
English Breakfast Crack T 
Entrance Exam T 
Goldilocks T 
Gripper T 
Klemens Escape T 
Leanie Meanie T 
Midterm T 
New Dimensions T 
Principle, The S 
Sidetrack T 
Supplication T 

The Principle 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: James Lombard, Brian Ketron (11/97)
Page Views: 218
Submitted By: EJoe on Nov 24, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This is a really hard "boulder problem" of a climb where the shortness of the route concentrates the difficulty. Begin at the start of Goldilocks, then move up and right to the first bolt. Go around the arete to a very thin flake system and follow this to the anchor.

The crux is basically between bolts 1 - 4 and involves shouldery gastons, sidepulls, power crimps, and opposition off mediocre feet. Can be TRed by rappelling the first pitch of English Breakfast Crack.

I've seen this listed between 12b and 12c. It could be a style thing, but the climb felt stout for the grade.


Just right of Goldilocks


6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor

Comments on The Principle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Ketron
Jan 20, 2017

Fear of grading this route too soft led me to originally call this route 12b.
Years later with no ego attached, I feel it's solid at 12c.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About