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The Prince and The Pauper 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand
Page Views: 380
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Jun 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (91)
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BETA PHOTO: The Prince and the Pauper with approximate bolt lo...

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  • Description 

    I don't remember any real crux, just thoughtful laybacking and stemming. It is a pretty fun warm-up. It is still a little dirty, but if you feel around, you'll find plenty of cleaned jugs....


    This is NOW the 2nd route from the left. In between Boyz From the Hood and Merry Men.


    Bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

    Comments on The Prince and The Pauper Add Comment
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    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jul 22, 2010

    That big, fragile flake left of the 5th bolt was cleaned off today with the slightest tug and exploded below thanks to Dave. Yeow! There are still a couple of big, mobile chunks just below the anchor that could take out a belayer. Beware.
    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Aug 12, 2010

    My partner trundled the boulders near the anchor today. It's still got lichen in some of the places you need to smear, but it's getting cleaner and is worth getting on. It's good to have a few warmups before sending Prince of Thieves.
    By prod. Kenny
    From: Boulder, Co
    Oct 15, 2011

    Fun line.
    By Ben Bronson
    Jul 2, 2012

    FYI, one of the anchor bolts is missing. We used Merry Men's anchor--no problem traversing with the wide ledge.
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    May 1, 2013

    Strange, I posted on July 6, 2012 that I replaced the missing anchor mentioned above. That comment has vanished, but it is still on my personal page.
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    May 4, 2013

    Greg, it is possible that you posted it as a condition report? If so, those disappear after some time.
    By Andrew Locke
    From: Louisville, CO
    Jun 7, 2014
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I'm just barely giving this two stars, and that's really only for the "boulder problem" to the first bolt. We also didn't notice any loose rock, and the moves between the 5th and 6th bolt were thought provoking. Certainly merits more than a star, but it wasn't particularly memorable. Worth doing if you're in the area and nobody's on it.

    All that said, it's probably a pretty good first 5.10 lead.
    By Larry Shaw 1
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 30, 2017

    My climbing partner and I really enjoyed this route, and it seems to be cleaning up nicely over time. The crux was 5th through the 6th bolt and the sequences, and holds were fun. Two stars for me.

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