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The Prudential
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
El Funko S 
Finland S 
Full Premium, The S 
Half Premium, The S 
Hard Drive S 
Horned Behavior S 
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 
Machine Head S 
Measured Doses S 
Midget Tricks S 
Mission Accomplished S 
Nice Land S 
Practice, The S 
Prudential Crack T 
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished)  T 
Short and sharp S 
Soft Job S 
Soft Machine S 
Stoned Temple Pilot S 
Swedish Girls S 
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 
Unknown  S 
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 

The Half Premium 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tom Armstrong
Page Views: 1,231
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Sep 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Prudential right, Vivian belaying Aaron on Machine...


(Note: The route known as "The Premium" has been divided into two route submissions: The Half Premium and The Full Premium. The Half Premium ends at anchors on the midway ledge, and the Full Premium continues past those anchors to the top of the cliff.)

The Half Premium climbs the beautiful gray dihedral in the center of the cliff. Stick clip the first bolt and crank a technical and powerful crux sequence. Sandy jugs lead left, after which it's possible to topout on the midway ledge. Clip the anchors on the left and lower off, or, if it's not wet and/or you aren't already knackered, continue up the towering orange dihedral above to complete the Full Premium.


5 bolts to midway anchors

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 25, 2010

Way steeper and harder than it first appears. Prepare for powerful, technical, pumpy climbing, while doing splits.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 31, 2013

finally tried it today! Mark put it very well... Steep and hard pretty much all the way! Super fun! felt full on 5.12d to me, i found the lower and upper corners to be equally difficult but in different ways... get on it!

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