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Sugarloaf, West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back in Black T 
Crack Face T 
Cry Mary T 
Espresso S 
Fat Merchant Crack T 
Ghost in the Machine T 
Grand Delusion T 
Hanging by a Thread S 
Happy Face T,S 
Hyperspace T 
Macrel Sky T 
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 
Northern Lights T 
Only the Young Die Brave T 
Pan Dulce T 
Podium, The T 
Pony Express T 
Slippy Liam S 
Sugar Daddy S 
TM's Deviation T 
Twist and Shout T,TR 
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 
West Chimney T 

The Podium 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 270
Submitted By: Salamanizer suchoski on May 17, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

The podium is a unique route that is a great introduction to easy offwidth and bold chimney climbing. Climb up a short but easy offwidth to a low angle chimhey. Climb up into the chimney over chockstones to the flat floor of a wide chimney overhead. Belay by sitting down. No need to build an anchor. The second pitch is a 40ft unprotected chimney directly below a large chockstone. Climb up to the chockstone which accepts gear to protect the top out. Climb over the chockstone and up a low angle face to a sling belay around a tree. Rappel off the tree with a 60m rope to the anchors of The Man Who Fell To Earth/Only The Young Die Brave. Make a second rappel to the ground or scramble/downclimb the left side of the formation past Back In Black.

Location 

The obvious offwidth left of Only the Young Die Brave.

Protection 

Cams, singles 1" to 5"


Comments on The Podium Add Comment
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By Colin Szehner
From: Oakland, Ca
Sep 2, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

As of August 30, 2014 the tree at the top of this climb is completely rotten and could easily be taken out with a swift kick. Has probably been struck by lightning multiple times. I would not recommend rappelling off of this thing. It would be great to get a set of bolts on top to make the climb more accessible. The lower off-width section is rad, bumped a #4 halfway and ran-out the rest. Suggesting an R rating for the 40 ft of unprotected chimney climbing to reach the top out.
By Salamanizer suchoski
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Sep 2, 2014

Ah yes, you are correct! An R rating it does have though a mild one at that. No real need for bolts on top as one can easily just walk off. Probably faster to boot as one 60m or 70m rope will not get you to the base. You'll either have to bring two ropes (drag) or do two rappels from the OYDB anchors. The walk off takes less than two minutes.
By Jamie Silliman
From: Wilton, CA
Oct 31, 2014

I rapped off the tree and didn't like it earlier this year (2014). I found that after the initial off-width (5.9), where you can use a wide piece, that I could protect the chimney fairly well by staying more inside of it where I could place pro, rather on the outside. There were some run-out sections, but I did not run it out all the way from the end of the off-width, to the top.

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