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Cave Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cro-Magnons From Space T 
Main Vein, The T,S 
Pleasure Pillar, The T 
Rowan's Arete S 
Unaweeper, The S 
Unknown 1 T 
Unknown 2 S 
Unknown 3/ Unknown 3 Variation T 

The Pleasure Pillar 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jesse Zacher, Rob Pizem, Dave Foley
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 515
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Aug 17, 2011

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Description 

This was a good find while out for a day of cragging. The cracks are straight in and not of the typical flared variety commonly found in Unaweep.

Start in the deep gully and get high enough to hand traverse left, on good feet and holds, to gain a ledge where you will get your first protection. From here, make a semi-awkward move that gains a hand crack over a slight roof. Once you pull the roof, continue to a ledge near some blocks. Follow the splitter finger crack that begins in a slight overhang, and plug and chuck for 20 feet to another ledge. From here, do a few face moves to reach the anchor.

Location 

This route is one of the first ones you come upon when heading to cave buttress. It is on the left handside of a large gully. It climbs the prominent prow that is approximately 100 to the left and down hill from Cro-Magnons From Space.

Protection 

Bring a double set from blue Metolius to yellow Camalot. One #3 and #4 Camalot. There are bolted anchor at the top. You need a 70 meter rope or you will have to downclimb the gully a bit.


Photos of The Pleasure Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling into the splitter fingers.
Pulling into the splitter fingers.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route follows the obvious crack system up the ...
The route follows the obvious crack system up the ...

Comments on The Pleasure Pillar Add Comment
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By rob pizem
Aug 17, 2011

The route has some of the nicest hand crack in the canyon and a towerlike summit. Great exposure and fun moves with excellent protection.