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The Sweat Lodge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ghost Dance S 
Indian Giver S 
Medicine Wheel S 
Peace Pipe S 
Plastic Shaman, The S 
Skin Walker S 
Sun Dance S 
Trail of Tears S 
Training Wheels S 
Whiskey Drunk S 

The Plastic Shaman 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: BJ Tilden, 2010
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: Tom Rangitsch on Apr 22, 2016

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road closed in Spring, depending on conditions MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Plastic Shaman is the centerpiece of climbing in the Sweat Lodge. It starts on the second set of bolts from the right side of the steep wall. It is consistently hard, utilizing small positive pockets and crimps. No move is harder than V8, but no move is easier than V6.

Start by doing some big moves between positive pockets to the right of the bolts. A hard crux move off a small left hand crimp just before bolt four leads to the only "rest" on the route. Look for a horizontal pocket band that traverses the length of the flake. If you can, get a quick shake here. From this point the redpoint crux ensues. Surf up to a good left hand lay back then to a right hand one. Next go up some gastons and finally dyno to a pretty good horn at the lip of the overhang. Don't blow it on the final headwall section.

Protection 

bolts, 8 or so


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