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The Sweat Lodge
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Ghost Dance S 
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Plastic Shaman, The S 
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Whiskey Drunk S 

The Plastic Shaman 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: BJ Tilden, 2010
Page Views: 263
Submitted By: Tom Rangitsch on Apr 22, 2016

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road closed in Spring, depending on conditions MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Plastic Shaman is the centerpiece of climbing in the Sweat Lodge. It starts on the second set of bolts from the right side of the steep wall.

Start by doing some big moves between positive pockets to the right of the first 2 bolts. The first crux (for me the most difficult) starts right after bolt 3. You lead right hand up to a "Spock" pocket and then bump left to a sloper and then to a small crimp. A high right foot aids you to move the right hand to a sloper pocket and then left goes to a positive crimp just to the right of bolt 4. Make a difficult clip here. Next you move up to a right hand crimp pocket and finally to a left hand letter box. You make one more move up to a horizontal pocket band that traverses the length of the flake. If you can, get a quick shake here, but none of the holds are any good. Clip bolt 5 from here.

From this point the redpoint crux ensues. Surf up to a good left hand lay back then to a right hand one. Next go up some gastons and finally deadpoint to a pretty good horn at the lip of the overhang. Don't blow it on the final headwall section.

Protection 

9 bolts, with fixed draws


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