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Lost Boys
Routes Sorted
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I Can Fly! S 
I wanna go home S 
Lost My Marbles S 
Plank, The S 
Seize the Day S 
Sleep or Awake? S 

The Plank 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 4,145
Submitted By: ScottH on Aug 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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BETA PHOTO: P3

Description 

This 3 pitch route ascends the far right side of Lost Boys.

P1. Begin right of a dead tree stump. Ascend shallow broken corners to a belay under a roof. Discontinous, odd, so-so climbing, 20m. 5.9

P2. Traverse left from the belay, pull into a corner and get established on the slab above the lip (crux), then continue up easier ground to the anchor. Nice pitch. Solid 5.10a, 20m.

P3. Follow a few bolts up the easy face to the highest anchor. Somewhat runout. 5.7, 20m.

It is possible to combine P1&P2. Make judicious use of long runners near the P1 belay and also for bolts 3&4 on P1 to keep rope drag reasonable.

It is difficult to communicate with your second from the top of P2, and if the second falls low in the crux it can be quite challenging to get back on the route.

Location 

From the anchor on P3 with 2 60m ropes, rappel to the ground. Otherwise, from the P2 anchor make 2 single rope rappels-- either to the anchor above N4 (hanging and not super comfy), or the first pitch anchor of N2.

Protection 

Bolts.


Photos of The Plank Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top of pitch 2
View from the top of pitch 2

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 3, 2016
By Michael Davidson
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 17, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The crux took some thought but was very fun. Cool route on a great wall.
By Ram
Aug 27, 2013

rappelling is harder to follow the same route. but you can do one rappel if you have a 70 m rope from the second pitch. the crux was nicer. it is a solid 5.10a and exposed. falling in the crux is bad for the follower because of the rope swing, not easy to get back on to the route.
By Ryan Canfield
From: North Bend, WA
Sep 27, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Descent Suggestion: From the top, use the chain anchor and make an airy rappel directly down to the ledge with the huge dead snag (top of 'I Wanna Go Home'). There are chains here. From here make one more full 30 meter rappel to the base. Much easier and more cozier than the option that the guidebook suggests.
By gregman
Jul 10, 2014

Definitely rap directly down from the anchors of the 5.7 to the top of the multi-pitch 5.11 route, will save you significant pains of trying to rap down the route itself. From there, a 60m rope will just barely hit the ground, so only two rap's will be necessary.

The 5.10a has an obvious crux on the slab face with some fairly significant exposure, but has quite a few options for passing through it, so don't hesitate to try a few different things while on lead.

There can be some road noise on the 2nd and 3rd pitches, so ensure you have alternative communication options setup with your belayer, just in case.

Also, don't skip the third pitch! Although it's 5.7, it's even more exposed than the second pitch, and you get a beautiful view of the valley with some actually interesting slab moves (albeit there are tons of holds).
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Nov 4, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There is some razor sharp rock on this route, use long slings to help with the rope dragging over the rock.
By Griffin Dittmar
Sep 11, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very fun route. Belay stations are well placed and well bolted. Each one has two main points and a third off set bolt for personal.

The crux is very fun and is the only thing that makes the route 10a, the rest is an easy 9 at most. Take time on top of P1 to think out the crux because its the second move up P2. Its not as hard as it looks its just a really weird bolder problem so just think it out.

For those that wanna top out (the top of P3 isn't the top) you can come off the rope and do a pretty easy scramble to the top rock platform that has two bolts in it if you chose to scramble with a rope or just use personal.

The repel can be done straight down in two. I did it with a 60m rope, it came about three feet of the ground so nothing to scary.
By lostthetrail
Sep 28, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route, pitch 3 is a bit chossy at first, but gets good. 2nd pitch traverse is very fun.

1st bolt after anchors appears to have been pulled. The sleeve is partly coming out of the rock. It's a bit runout due to that.
By Drew Charness
Feb 16, 2016

How many bolts are there for each pitch?
By barnaclebob
May 13, 2016

There are about 7-9 bolts per pitch and the bolt are where they need to be for the most part. As of yesterday the first bolt on the last pitch is missing so its about 20ft up some easy secure 5.6 climbing go get to the first bolt.

This is a really good route on the exit 38 quality scale, especially because you can actually get above the trees and feel like you climbed something "real".
By Madelynn Scherrer
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 4, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Partner and I only did the first pitch because the crux on the second looked a bit tricky. This is usually within our climbing range, but it was the end of the day and we were tired, and didn't want to risk an awkward fall. We will most likely try again next time!
By Jake Douglas
Oct 3, 2016

Fun route for 38. All 3 pitches are worth doing.

The crux is well protected and you can largely aid through it if you have to. The bolts are close enough together that the follower isn't exposed to much of a pendulum, but they might have to ascend the rope a few feet to get back on the lip if they peel. Not as a big a deal as I thought it would be.

First bolt of P3 is still missing but the climbing is easy and secure. Probably won't bother you if you got through the crux.

With a 60m rope, make one free-hanging rappel slightly skiers right between the huge tree and the steep wall down to chains at the top of the slab below. From there you can rappel all the way to the ground.