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Pitted Rock
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Cockpit T 
Gash, The T 
Gay Germans, The T 
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Overpowered By Hootch TR 
Pit Slut, The T 
Pitfall T 

The Pit Slut 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dave Bengston, 1991
Page Views: 324
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 19, 2008

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Description 

The crux on this route comes right off the first bolt, but the whole route is strenuous until you join The Gash (.10a) at the end. It is possible to enter the crack earlier or later, but I'm not sure it changes the overall difficulty much.

Location 

This is the 4 bolt route on the east side of the rock, around the corner from Pitfall.

Getting down is a little treacherous; it looks like it may be possible to climb up and over the top where Betty Gravel is and descend, but it is also possible to descend via a crack/chimney past the Pitfall face. The latter option is filled with kitty litter and is not recommended. I can't remember if the Pitfall anchor is accessible or not; it may have been that I didn't have any spare webbing to replace the ancient sunbleached tat that exists up there currently. In any case use caution with any option.

Protection 

4 bolts. A piece of gear at the start (small cam, not very good) protects getting to and clipping the first bolt and is probably a good idea. An optional cam can be placed in the finishing crack if desired. No fixed anchors on top; natural gear to 3 inches and slings are needed to build a toprope anchor.


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By Drewsky
Dec 19, 2008

This climb is very cool, but most will probably find the 5.12a rating in the book to be a bit of a sandbag. My suspicion is that this is one of those 5.12- Joshua Tree sport climbs that has gotten a bit harder over the years; I believe a large hold may have broken that both made the climb easier and made it easier and safer to clip the first bolt, based on visible rock scars. As it stands, .12c would not be an outlandish assessment of the grade. Lots of fun.