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Middle Mesa
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Pirate, The T 

The Pirate 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: J. Burcham, J. Mattson 2000
Season: Spring/Summer/Fall
Page Views: 801
Submitted By: Jake Dayley on Jul 18, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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i forgot one of my climbing shoes. doable, but not...

Description 

This route is a forgotten classic! Go do it!

P1 (5.10+) Climb up some tricky but fun terrain (5.10+) past three bolts and some gear to the beginning of the obvious crack system and a rest stance. Crank up the sweet crack, thin hands to hands, until you reach the belay stance below the chimney. Great rock and good pro. Maybe 90 feet.

P2 (5.10+) Launch into the surprisingly mellow chimney past three bolts to a short OW section. Above the OW the crack narrows to a sustained and steep hand/finger crack. Endless bomber jams and locks get you to another bolted anchor and a small ledge. Best pitch of the route! Great rock, good gear. About 120 feet.

P3 (5.10-) Head up the obvious ramp from the belay. Pull an awkward bulge higher up and climb to the belay/rap anchors. Another 20 feet up an easy chimney puts you on top. Okay rock, good pro. About 80 feet.

Protection 

Camalots - singles - #4, #5, optional #6
Doubles .3 - #3
*bring triples to sew it up*

All belays are bolted.
Descent - Rap 1 - 80 feet to top of 2nd pitch
Rap 2 - 210 feet to the ground. Two 60m ropes will barely work.

Approach: 20-30 mins. Head up the tourist trail from the Cathedral Rocks Trail head. Middle Mesa and the route can be seen from most of the trail, especially above the slabs. Just before the final steep section below the saddle veer off to the left on the Mace approach trail and head to the base of Middle Mesa. The base of The Pirate is pretty obvious but look for two very short wide sections right off the ground and bolts up higher.


Photos of The Pirate Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the awesome chimney start of P2
the awesome chimney start of P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Tokioka on P1 of The Pirate
Josh Tokioka on P1 of The Pirate

Comments on The Pirate Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Dolhyj 1
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 28, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

definitely put this on your to do list! a massively overlooked classic. but definitely dirty. also, you get the benefit of having tourists trying to have conversations with you from the trail
By SummitSender
Nov 18, 2016

Can rap with one 70m if wanted.

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