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The Pink Flamingo 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Roy Suggett & George Foster
New Route: Yes
Season: May through Oct.
Page Views: 148
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Jul 4, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: The Pink Flamingo Topo

Description 

This two-pitch route is in the “S” shape of a Flamingo’s neck. Like most pink flamingos-animate or inanimate and wherever they appear-they make a statement. This line does the same and follows the best rock and more-or-less stays with the overhanging arete. The anchor is also above both a possible trad and sport lines which looks significantly harder but on great rock. Feel free to set these up using the anchor and high bolts. You are welcomed to them. The Pink Flamingo however, stays left on the arete with more moderate climbing before turning right to the anchor that would cover the future more difficult projects below.

PI - 25 feet
Start with your back to Kestrel Tower and have the leader muscle up the short one bolt chimney to the large ledge with two bolts and a chain. The second will no longer give you crap about your groveling in the chimney after they join you atop this comfortable ledge. This, like most chimneys, is awkward and goes about 5.9.

PII - 65 feet
Keep the belayer at the anchor where more protection is afforded from any unpredicted rock fall and send the stronger leader up the face at the south end of the ledge. Clip the first bolt long. The second clip is up and left toward a notch in the arete. Mantle atop the blocky cut out in the arete and place a BD .4 here clipped long. The next moves are a sketchy traverse toward an awkward side pull. Move up a bit to a better stance and clip another bolt long prior to reaching far right and pulling your gear and straightening your line. More side pulls will get you to the fourth bolt where a 4’ runner would help. Up and right back to the arete through thin edging and arete climbing. Cross over to the high face above and work right and up to the anchor or clip here and top out in only a few moves. There seems to be two cruxes. Both in the upper half of this pitch, each a different kind of problem and each in the high 10s.

Location 

Just climber's left from Bird of Prey and in front of Kestrel Tower.

Protection 

Active- BD .4 X 1

QDs X 5

Two ft. runners X 3

Four ft. runner X 1

Anchor- Chain and a quicklink on two bolts.

Rope- This can be done in one pitch IF you use a 70 m rope AND the leader frees
the first pitch. Otherwise, if done in two pitches, you can use a 60 m
rope but must rap twice.


Photos of The Pink Flamingo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Some good rock and better lines to be had here!
BETA PHOTO: Some good rock and better lines to be had here!

Comments on The Pink Flamingo Add Comment
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By Roy Suggett
Jul 4, 2017

Even though a thoughtful extension of clips is needed to eliminate rope drag, I think folks will enjoy this one.

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