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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
False Perspective T,TR 
Fat Man's Misery TR 
In the Way T 
Life of Jam T,TR 
Pillow Right Side, The T 
Pillow's Edge T 
Pillow, The T,TR 
Smoke Hole T,TR 
Tree Slot Chimney T 
unnamed route to left T,TR 
Wailing Wall TR 
Weeping Wall TR 

The Pillow 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 208
Submitted By: Anonymous on Apr 20, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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BETA PHOTO: Pillow TR from bottom

Description 

This formation varies in difficulty, both in the climbing and the ability to protect. South edge (grabbing the edge is off) is a balancy slab with many high steps, as you move north the climbing gets easier and the pro gets better. Either route comes back to the left (south) to pass through the small roof at the top. On lead, the climber is looking at a fall onto the slab until well past the roof and into the finish moves. While these moves are easy, the fall potential should not be taken lightly....

Protection 

Small nuts (#3-5) brassies, small cams (.3 & .4) camalot, tricams (pink to 1st blue), #3.5 camalot up high, maybe a few medium nuts higher, long runners will help with rope drag, or use two ropes to shorten potential falls.


Photos of The Pillow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Weeping Wall (2), False Perspective (3), Wailing W...
BETA PHOTO: Weeping Wall (2), False Perspective (3), Wailing W...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lookin' sporty on the Pillow.
Lookin' sporty on the Pillow.

Comments on The Pillow Add Comment
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By Craig McCudden
May 20, 2003

Beware of the Tourons

Beware of the B.S.A.

Beware of the loose talus in the area!While hanging out at the base of these climbs I steped on a rock & it moved(Right under the #5), I lost my balance. Then while trying to break my fall I reached out to grab the rock but only 1 finger caught hold, the rest slipped on by.

All my weight went on the one finger and it snapped!

LOUD!

I set it right there and suffered the rest of the weekend...Monday the doc said" Wow what a good job you did setting that thing, I don't need to do a thing". Thcharged me $75 bucks for nada..........
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 1, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

There is gear on the lower part, but mostly very small cams (Aliens) and very thin nuts or micronuts. Classic Devils Lake leading problem: small gear placed shallowly, so don't fall far or to the wrong side of your gear!
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Sep 18, 2006

The Pillow was my first climb ever. And I was psyched.

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