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Upper Bulge Routes
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Crucifix, The T 
Field of Dreams T 
Flakes, The T 
Le Toit T 
Pharaoh, The T 
Price of Fear, The T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Step, The T 
Super Pooper T 
Vampire, The T 

The Pharaoh 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA:  Lynn Hill and John Long, 1983
Page Views: 450
Submitted By: fubar on Jun 16, 2014

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This is the obvious thin, arching crack to the left of the Bat Crack. Climb up to a bolt on the left side of the dihedral, then follow the tips crack around the corner, where some wild and physical climbing gains the flaky but solid handcrack. Continue up to the anchors on Vampire Ledge or (this would be cool but I haven't done it) link into the second half of the Vampire's first pitch.


Begin down and to the left of the Bat Crack on the slab below the crack.


One bolt (not sure if this was originally on route), tiny gear and some hand-sized pieces for the upper crack.

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By dhayan
Jun 19, 2014

Very cool pitch - starts with facey crack then delicate yet powerful moves on good holds after the bolt, leading to some steep jamming in a flared JTree like crack (could use more traffic to clean out). There is a rotten flake jug inside the upper part of crack, if it comes out the climb will get a bit harder.

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