|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 190'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]|
|Submitted By:||Joe Lee on Nov 2, 2007|
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By Sam Prentice
Mar 29, 2009
The lower half of the first pitch is absolutely stellar, steep, continuous 5.7. Among the best climbing at that grade you'll encounter anywhere, albeit over too soon. The easy but exposed arete finish makes this climb more than a one pitch wonder.
Their respective length differences aside, I wish this climb was adjacent to mental physics, so people could feel how a real four star 5.7 presents itself.
Combine this climb with Renaissance direct and your half-day is prime for smiles.
By Tim Heid
Feb 6, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
That first pitch was a lot of fun, the steep and thin climbing is great. The second pitch is enjoyable as well, with a variety of moves from thin to wide. Save a 2 or 3 for the last horizontal placement before the R section. The R section is about 30' of very easy arete climbing at probably 5.3. Don't sweat it and just go for it.
I found the easiest way to get to the base of the climb is to climb Renaissance Direct or Hanging Gardern's and walk over to the Phatom's anchors. Double rope rap onto the last boulder. You'll avoid the awkward wide climbing to get on top of the starting boulder.
Gear to 3". Bring 2 #3's for the gear anchor on top of pitch 1, although other creative options will work.