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The Phallus
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Phallus, The T 
SW Face T 

The Phallus 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A2+

Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 90', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A2+ [details]
FA: Peter Geyser
Page Views: 1,880
Submitted By: toddgordon Gordon on Apr 30, 2007

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The Phallus. Photo: Todd Gordon collection.

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  • Description 

    Climb the SE face.


    2.8 miles past the Courthouse Bridge, on the left.


    Lots of "stuff" see Eric's Book

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    By toddgordon Gordon
    From: Joshua Tree, California
    May 5, 2007

    Eric's book says friends #2 through #3 1/2, tri-cams 32 1/2, #3, rocks # 6 through #8, 6 long bugaboos, 2 standard angles, and one each of 1", 1 1/2', and 2 baby angles (1/2" and 3/8"). We took no tri-cams...(AKA butt-cams)...but I did use a number of pins. I remember one section where I was really struggling with the gear and which of 3 difficult short crack sections to take.....I think I tried all three, and finally got through this tricky section some-how....(Which took awhile and was frustrating, but rewarding once I DID figure it out...). The aid is rated A2+;....which I find to be plenty tricky enough for me. I believe the climb is plenty safe enough, and it's not all that long too. It's a funky -looking weenie for sure, and challenging to climb. I enjoyed myself on this climb. I don't think it gets done all that much; sure is a striking formation from the road. It's got a short approach, and it's a great adventure.
    By Mark P Thomas
    From: Oakland
    Nov 8, 2011

    Considering the Park's restrictions on pitons now, does anyone know if this route has been done clean? Clean rating & rack?
    By Darren Knezek
    Nov 8, 2011

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