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The Peuterey Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 800', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Shingo Ohkawa, Paul Ross, April 16th 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 663
Submitted By: USBRIT Ross on Apr 21, 2012

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Camp.....With the Jolly Green Giant

Description 

Named after the majestic Peuterey Ridge on Mt Blanc... The ridge has little majestic climbing after all its only the Sandstone Alps ! Given three stars for it being a fun climb in a nice setting with great views.To get to the start keep on the flat until directly below the ridge then hike steeply up to the top of the wave.

P1)Easy climbing up to the foot of the corner and double anchors. 60' 5.3.
P2)Climb the groove to the roof past one bolt and some cam placements then left to where the ridge flattens. Here one will pass rap anchors for descent. 60' 5.7.
P3) About 600' of 4th class to where the ridge steepens below a chossy gully.
P4)Enter the small gully and exit right up to the start of the perfect rock on the final buttress. One can take a natural belay here (60')or continue about 70' to the summit passing cam, stopper placements and one bolt .130' 5.4. A stance was taken behind the summit block.
Register under small cairn.
Rap anchors on the summit block. Rap the route.

Location 

Camp at the end of the Two Finger Canyon road. Hike south for about 30 mins to One Finger Canyon keeping on the flats. Walk up to just before the entrance of the canyon then hike up to the left...continue keeping low until the obvious Ridge comes into view.

Protection 

Cams 1/4" to 2.5" Stoppers. Might just need one 60m rope for descent.


Photos of The Peuterey Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tele photo...Ross at the end of the ridge. photo A...
Tele photo...Ross at the end of the ridge. photo A...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tele Photo..Climber on the 4th class section.Below...
Tele Photo..Climber on the 4th class section.Below...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the final tower
On the final tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top of the ridge tower
Near the top of the ridge tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Higher on P2
Higher on P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving up to the final tower out of the small gull...
Moving up to the final tower out of the small gull...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shingo starting the corner P2
Shingo starting the corner P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul top of P1
Paul top of P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up to the start of the climb.
Looking up to the start of the climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: A) The Peuterey Ridge. 5.7 B)Its only Rock and Rol...
BETA PHOTO: A) The Peuterey Ridge. 5.7 B)Its only Rock and Rol...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shingo on the summit belay.
Shingo on the summit belay.

Comments on The Peuterey Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Evans
Oct 31, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

My wife and I climbed this as our last route of a fun Eastern Reef long weekend. We enjoyed the approach hike witch took about 45 minutes or so of generally flat walking. Very enjoyable pitches of climbing, with the last very well positioned and topping out on a pointy little summit with room for one. Maybe the second ascent?
By USBRIT Ross
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Nov 4, 2013

Could be the second .. Glad you had fun ..

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