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Willard S 

The Penguin 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: M. Rolofson
Page Views: 801
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 14, 2005

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  • Description 

    This is sort of the indirect start to Catwoman (or Catwoman is the direct start to this...whatever). Begin to the right of Catwoman and left of Willard. Make much-more-difficult-than-they-look moves up and left to a very slopey shelf. Make a burly stand-up move onto the shelf (crux) and latch the obvious juggy flake. From here, traverse up and left to the tricky mantle finish of The Joker.

    This is kind of a one move wonder but with the sustained, slopey, 5.11 climbing below the crux. It is a surprisingly pumpy route. It is a good climb but not nearly as good as the other classics on this crag.

    Protection 

    5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor shared with The Joker.


    Comments on The Penguin Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Chris Archer
    Jul 2, 2012

    Climbing the arete slightly right of the crimpy crux makes it 12a.
    By erik rieger
    From: Ridgway, CO
    Jan 12, 2014

    Not too bad until you hit the crux. Then it's hard.
    By Bobbi Bensman
    Jul 26, 2015
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    This is such a cute route! Being a yogini helps make it easier. Really enjoyed.
    By Brady Robinson
    Jun 2, 2017

    Juggy flake is gone! Now you hit the recently revealed holds just above the 4th bolt. Go up left to a sloping flake in the corner, then dyno up to the sloper over the lip. Fun new 5.12 moves.

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