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The Pearly Gates 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 265'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Carl Dec and Jeff Rhoads
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 804
Submitted By: cdec on Sep 28, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Approach - Blue

  • Use the established trails
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    3 pitches of bolted climbing. The route is a great combination of friction, edging, pockets and thin technical climbing on the second pitch. Good rock is the norm on this one.

    P1 5.9+ 80' 10 bolts
    There is a 2 bolt belay to provide security and to allow rappelling to the ground. Start just left, then trend right and up to base of shallow right facing corner.
    Belay at 2 bolt anchor.

    P2 5.10c 90' 12 bolts
    Follow bolts up corner and then onto upper face and 2 bolt belay. Climbing is technical and thin but well protected.

    P3 5.8 80' 10 bolts
    Follow bolts up through small roof to 2 bolt belay. Alpine draw for 3rd bolt helpful. Bolt needed to be left due to rock quality.

    Location 

    Pearly Gates starts on good ledge about 40' above and left of Highway to Hell. Easy scramble is found just left of overhanging rock left of Highway to Hell start. There is a 2 bolt belay at the base of pitch 1.

    Descent: Rap with a single 60m.

    Protection 

    12 draws. 1 alpine draw is helpful on 3rd pitch.


    Photos of The Pearly Gates Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pearly Gates = Yellow Hellgate Highway = Green Wal...
    BETA PHOTO: Pearly Gates = Yellow Hellgate Highway = Green Wal...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Carl at the crux of the second pitch. Continues te...
    Carl at the crux of the second pitch. Continues te...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Carl Dec on the first pitch of "The Pearly Ga...
    Carl Dec on the first pitch of "The Pearly Ga...

    Comments on The Pearly Gates Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By zoso
    Aug 2, 2017
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Great route. 5.9, 10c, 5.8. Well bolted and quite clean. Each pitch has a different character and are all worthy. EZ to combine P2 and P3 with a 70m. Thanks!

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