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Pistol Whipped Wall
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A Good Day to Die T 
Dangling Derelict T 
Firing Line S 
Hair Trigger S 
Hang 'Em High TR 
Peacemaker, The S 
Pistol Whipped S 
Ricochet S 
Shootin' Blanks S 
Showdown, The S 
Silver Bullet S 

The Peacemaker 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Miller and Chuck Scott, July 2001
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 129
Submitted By: C Miller on May 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Tom Donnely finishing the crux of Peacemaker.

Description 

This climbs the face to steep headwall just right of Ricochet on the left side of the Pistol Whipped Wall.

An easy start up nicely featured rock leads to a scooped out area and then a prominent horizontal below a smooth headwall. Crimping your way over the headwall and then getting established above.is the crux, and the airy feeling adds to the excitement.

Although slightly chossy in the middle section, the rest of the climb is on good rock and a bit more traffic will help to clean this up nicely.

Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchors


Comments on The Peacemaker Add Comment
Show which comments
By gregory huey
From: Irvine, CA
Aug 4, 2008

Did this route lose a key hold on the lip of the bulge, right side? Kinda looks that way to me...
By tom donnelly
From: san diego
Aug 21, 2008

yes, a hold broke just over the roof.
In June 2007 it was an awesome 11a route.
By Aug 2007 there was now a kinda nasty harder move added.
By Brian Chastain
Jul 3, 2012

Reading the above note makes me feel better. Pulling that bulge goes a fair bit more than 11a. There is a good hold from where the broken hold is but getting there is a pretty difficult sequence. The fall is no big deal because there is a bolt right at your belly so go for it even if 11a is your limit.
By Coon
May 16, 2014

Fun route. You come out of the scoop and onto the bulge on 2 obvious crimps. Took a little looking and feeling to figure out the next crimps, but theyre there and not bad... let me bring my right foot up and push up onto the buldge. Fun aint over yet, awesome thin moves to finish off on pumped fingers.
By Hank G
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 11, 2014

There's a loose/rotten flake below and right of the scoop. Its a pretty crucial right-hand side pull that allows you to gain the scoop via the somewhat blank section directly below. Make sure your belayer is wearing their helmet and using an auto locking device.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 14, 2017

The bulge is extremely difficult. Just the right amount of fun and balance to reach some key holds and clipping safe (TR hero here). Switching hands to pull the bulge seemed almost undoable. Right hip in, left hip in, straight on, bionic strength... nothing worked. Ultimately, a full cheat of hang and swap hands without sequence to pull the move and top out.

Sometimes you're just not good enough to do a route but can see/read the line. This wasn't like that... I don't think the sequence to dynamically make the transitions with the hands will come to me. I tried pretty hard and failed. Before and After... fun stuff, borderline tweaky at the top or perhaps just finger fatigue from the lower crux.

I'm not a big beta gal, but would love to see someone lead the line. Good stuff... if you got it!

Edit: The decomposing flake that flake speaks of above is marked with an X. It doesn't look that attractive but more solid than the X it's marked with. Completely avoidable, never touched it to gain the scoop and horizontal above.

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