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The Pawn

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Earth , Wind and Fire Dihedral T 
En Passant T 

The Pawn Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 3,407
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tea on Mar 27, 2006
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Paul Anderson on the summit of the Pawn in 1965 Ph...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The buttress way up on the north ridge of LCC

Getting There 

Way, way waaaay up there.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.1 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Pawn
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo, En Passant in black

En Passant 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : The Pawn
1. Scramble up easy lower angle slab to belay at two bolts.2. Climb to base of steep corners to the right of large overhang. Follow corners (5.9) protected by several pins and make a rightward traverse past a bolt to a wide crack. Follow this to a ledge.3. From belay ledge, move left and up to a bush, then traverse left across lower angle slab to a bolt. Climb up to a short crack and go left to an optional belay ledge or continue up bolt-protected face to good belay ledge.4. Traverse left from t...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of The Pawn Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Pawn, taken from the Great White Icicle area.
The Pawn, taken from the Great White Icicle area.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Pawn and friend at sunrise from across the val...
The Pawn and friend at sunrise from across the val...

Comments on The Pawn Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Mar 8, 2016
Hey, anyone been up there in the last few years? New routes? Beta on old routes?
By bsmoot
Mar 12, 2016
There's info coming out in the new guide. I've been there a bit. It's a 2 hour hike, but the views are worth it.
By zoso
Mar 13, 2016
The trail up there is great if you're in the mood for a hike.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 19, 2016
Anyone done either of the 3 star 5.9 Smoot routes in the new guide? Curious how spicy they are?
By TylerPhillips
Sep 19, 2016
They're highly worthy and not overly "spicy". YMMV
By Mike Marmar
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 30, 2017
Stan, I climbed "En Passant" yesterday. The first 3 pitches are great on really nice rock. They are well protected, with close bolting or solid pins/good gear wherever the climbing is 5.9. After pitch 3 the rock quality deteriorates until it is total kitty litter.
By bsmoot
Jun 1, 2017
"After pitch 3 the rock quality deteriorates until it is total kitty litter."

It's not that bad. Pitches 4-6 still have good rock and you can go down after the next pitch. If you keep going up pitches 8-10, there are sections of gritty/rotten rock but for me the setting is so spectacular, that you don't notice it too much. There are some extra long bolts to protect you along the exposed knife edge section. The views are outstanding.

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