||Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|FA: ||Cory Fleagle / Liz Donley (9/19/10)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||264|
|Submitted By: ||Cor on Sep 21, 2010|
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What you'll find on the front side rappel - ch...
This route goes up the obvious, large, left-facing dihedral/chimney system on the south face of the tower. Climb the right side/face of the chimney feature. The rock is good on this side and has many cracks for protection. Head to the top of this feature, belay on a large ledge. Head up from the ledge on easy ramps and grassy ledges to another large ledge. On the right side of this large ledge, move up a broken, right-facing, dihedral system with lots of cracks on the right face. Continue up to the summit ridge. once on the ridge head up it to the the summit on easy ground.
From the summit, step down to a large, square ledge to access the rap anchor (a long cord around the block you are standing on). Maybe bring extra webbing to back this up, or in case the wind blew it away! Do a double rope rap to the saddle behind the tower (note: we rapped to the SW side of the saddle). Then from the saddle, walk down the gully on the east side of the tower. About halfway down this gully, it chokes down and gets steep. There are lots on pine trees about at this level. Walk through the pines and around on a ledge to the front face (where you climbed). Look for stacked rocks that we marked the area with. There is a 2 stopper rap anchor out there.
Do another double rope rap. This will bring you down to start area of the climb.
Standard rack to a #4 Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Route, front rap.
By Liz Donley
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 7, 2010
The rock is good and the route is a pretty relaxing adventure. It's kinda nice to have a new 5.6 up there as well.
Nov 19, 2016
Made a lap up the first weekend in Nov. Pitch two was the fun one! The descent description on this page was pretty spot on, and Rossiter's newer guide also helped us out. Definitely worth the approach in.
One update: we couldn't find the two stoppers on the front side rappel (not saying they aren't there still). However, we found a couple slung boulders with a green Beal climbing rope ~9.5mm (rope says Mar. '16) and rap rings. There is also a potential bail spot below near the top of P2 with a sling + 2 carabiners. Pic included.