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The Pastafarian 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Greg Child - 1997
Page Views: 1,511
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Cedar Wright on The Pastafarian, nearing the 2 bol...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great mixed climb that requires endurance stemming/chimneying and the ability to crank on first-digit locks.

Begin immediately right of Tofu Crack and head up a wide crack to the top of a large block. Climb up sandy rock to a ledge below the business: A long, narrowing finger crack on the right and an obtuse corner on the left. Head up this with increasing difficulty to a bolt, then bust some creative moves past a difficult second clip, and finally some pumpy but secure locks to the anchor.

Protection 

0.5 Camalots down to purple TCU's/blue Aliens. A #2 and/or #4 Camalot with a long sling is useful for the start.


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By Ol Toby
From: CA
Nov 9, 2010
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Hard stemming and thin gear before the bolts; green alien for the right crack or blue alien/purple tcu for the left. Then a tricky sequence between the bolts leads to a long pull at the finish.
By Raddam6
May 6, 2016
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

One bolt would have been fine. Grade is finger size dependent.
By Nate Sydnor
From: Moab
Nov 14, 2016

FA - Greg Child

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