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A Little Nukey T 
Aplodonita T,S 
Divorce Quartz T 
Don't Go Changin' T 
Go Runout and Pray T,S 
Hannaramic S 
Paraclete, The T 
Trivial Pursuit T 
Warm Black Knobs T 
Welcome to Courtright T 
Wichita Lineman T 

The Paraclete 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: James Weger, Greg Vernon, Mike Baca, & Tom Jeter (07-87)
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 925
Submitted By: Eric "Pig" Varley on Aug 12, 2013

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just past the first dike on P1.

Description 

This is a fantastic and fairly sustained route that follows a black streak to the top of Power Dome. It begins on the same ledge as Welcome to Courtright, on the far end (climber's right) of the ledge system.

With a 70m rope, pitches 1 and 2, and 3 and 4 can be easily linked.

Pitch 1 (5.10a, 4 bolts): Start up a short right facing feature to the first bolt 20-25 feet off the ground. Continue up small holds and friction moves to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.10a, 5 bolts): Follow the black streak up the face. This pitch starts at about 5.8 and gradually increases in difficulty. Ends at a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor

Pitch 3 (5.10b/c, 1 bolt + pro): Move up to a higher ledge and clip the first and only bolt. Feet and hand holds begin to disappear as you approach obvious crux of the route. Be aware that the leader can hit the small ledge below the first bolt if they blow the moves. Once past the crux, it becomes a jug fest to the next anchor. Note: there is a 5.8 escape traverse to the left after the 1st bolt if the crux moves prove difficult. Ends on top of the roof/flake system at a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 4 (5.10a, 4 bolts): Continue following the black streak. This is the most sustained pitch of the climb. Stay aware of your foot holds and be prepared for a few hand-foot matches and single leg presses. Ends at a 2 bolt anchor

Pitch 5 (5.8, all pro): A few moderate slab moves bring you to the typical Power Dome solution pockets. Bring your tricams and look out for sling throughs. Ends a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 6 (5.7, all pro): The dome begins to curve off to an easier angle. Continue following the solution pockets to the top. A natural anchor is required at the top (pro from 0.5-2")

Location 

To find the start of the route, look up to a roof system about 300 feet up. This roof system is to climber's left of the giant flake on A Little Nukey. On the right side of this roof, there is a black streak running down to the base of the wall. The Paraclete follows this streak.

Protection 

Cams from 0.5-2" for the final anchor. Bring Tricams and additional slings for the solution pockets.


Photos of The Paraclete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Paraclete on Power Dome
BETA PHOTO: The Paraclete on Power Dome

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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 23, 2014

FA: James Weger, Greg Vernon, Mike Baca, & Tom Jeter (07-87).

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